Two Turkish delights: Argos in Cappadocia and Vakko Hotel & Residence, Istanbul

I’m resting on my bed, taking in my surroundings. My eyes follow the curvature of the room – the vaulted ceiling, the carved-stone walls, the rounded doorways and cubby holes filled with antiques. 

The fireplace in the centre is the only structure with straight lines, and even that wouldn’t look out of place in an ancient abode. This is not your typical bedroom. 

Then again, Argos in Cappadocia is not your typical hotel. Built into the hillside in the village of Uçhisar, it was created from a collection of old stone houses, cave dwellings, tunnels, rock-hewn churches, and a monastery. 

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Embracing nature, sustainability, and cultural heritage, it offers the opportunity to sleep in a living piece of history. The transformation into a luxury hotel spanned several years and there’s minimal use of plastic. Instead, the aesthetic is one of stone, wood, natural textiles, and traditional handicrafts.

Hearty Anatolian fare

There are two restaurants, Nahita and Seki – the latter located in one of the oldest monasteries in the world. The menus at both showcase seasonal homegrown produce, sourced from within a 60-kilometre radius or, better yet, plucked from the hotel’s organic gardens. In summer, it’s pretty much farm to fork. 

In winter, ingredients are preserved, dried and fermented, turned into jams, pastes, sauces and stews. The outcome is hearty, homely Anatolian fare, served on colourful handmade plates. Standouts include the shrimp casserole at Seki, and the grilled lettuce salad at Nahita. 

For lighter bites, there’s the Seki Lounge and Nahita Lounge, perfect for enjoying a signature cocktail and mezze while watching the sun set over the Pigeon Valley, and Mount Erciyes beyond.

The Anatolian region is renowned for its viticulture, hosting some of Turkey’s oldest and most pioneering wineries. Emir, an indigenous white grape, thrives here. 

Argos naturally has its own vineyards, located at an altitude of between 900 and 1,300 metres, producing wines from native varieties such as emir, kalecik karasi, bogazkere and narince. A labyrinthine wine cellar sits beneath Seki, some 22,000 bottles strong. A tour of it is highly recommended. 

As is a visit to the spa. Even though I was staying in a Jacuzzi suite, I couldn’t pass up the chance to have a massage in one of its cave treatment rooms. Something about ancient stone walls is very calming. 

The spa also contains a tranquil indoor pool, a yoga and meditation shala, two saunas, two steam rooms, and two hammams – it’s guaranteed to soothe even the most frazzled 21st-century soul.

Views over the Bosphorus

While many of the caves in Cappadocia have been converted into restaurants and tourist accommodation, some remain empty. 

I spent a good few hours exploring Uçhisar and the valley below, nosing into an array of lunar-shaped structures wondering what it must have been like to eke out an existence, quite literally, from the earth. 

Pale rocks ripple out around mushroom-shaped columns, conical houses, and otherworldly formations etched out of volcanic tuff by the elements. It’s a beautiful, albeit unforgiving landscape. 

Bidding Cappadocia goodbye, I made a stop in Istanbul on my way home. My base for my layover was Vakko Hotel & Residence – a chic hotel located in the Nisantasi neighbourhood. Vakko, Turkey’s premier luxury fashion house, founded in 1934, is famous for its ready-to-wear collections, scarves, and haute couture. 

The Hotel & Residence is its new hospitality offering and sits above the flagship store, featuring 31 stylish self-catering suites with all mod-cons. The basement contains the Vakkorama gym and Sanitas spa, complete with a eucalyptus-scented steam room. 

The Vakko L’Atelier bistro also didn’t disappoint. It marries modern French gastronomy with global flavours. I had a gorgeous burrata salad and grilled salmon for dinner. It was like a little touch of Paris in Istanbul. Guests can also book the “Chef Chez Vous” service, where a private chef will cook for you in your own suite.

I squeezed in lunch at nearby Biz, on the seventh floor of the Atatürk Cultural Centre in Taksim Square. Its three areas – Has, Lokanta and the Bar – all have views over the Bosphorus, and serve seasonal dishes that reflect the city’s culturally diverse cuisine. Each dish tells a “story”. 

Highlights include the fluffy Midyeli Pilav with Bosporus mussels, black pepper and cinnamon, the delicate filo börek and the seabass. 

I ended my stay with dinner at 29. Located in Ulus Park, it’s one of Istanbul’s best restaurants and overlooks the Bosphorus. Gazing out over the city – bridging Europe and Asia – with a Lilith cocktail in hand has to be the perfect end to any Turkish trip. 

Katie was a guest of Vakko Hotel & Residence, Premiere Suites from £640 per night; and Argos in Cappadocia, from £320, including breakfast.