Thornbury Castle: a castle stay with pedigree

Most hotels say that they have a sense of history, but few quite match the backstory of Thornbury Castle in Gloucestershire, located around 15 miles from Bristol. 

It not only hosted one of the most contentious monarchs in English history, Henry VIII, but also his daughter Mary I, as well as two of his wives – Catherine of Aragon and Anne Boleyn. 

The castle was built as a status symbol by Edward Stafford, third Duke of Buckingham and one of the leading nobles of the time. Henry VIII grabbed it when Stafford was found guilty of treason in 1521, and it would be visited by the royal household over the next three decades.

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Eventually, the castle was returned to the Stafford family in 1554, although by that time the Staffords had lost most of their fortune and it slowly drifted into disrepair. 

Fortunately, an advantageous marriage restored their fortunes, enabling it to be renovated. It was converted into a restaurant in the 1960s, before being turned into a hotel, now owned by the Emirati Khamas Group, which bought it in 2019. It is also part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux group of luxury hotels. 

Restoring the past

The new owners have carried out extensive work to upgrade the hotel’s facilities to the level that you would expect of a five-star boutique, and they have restored some of the period features that had previously been hidden by time. The result ensures that Thornbury’s sense of history is present in every inch of the property. 

This ranges from the charming gardens, which contain a wire sculpture of Henry VIII admiring the wide variety of plants and flowers, to the opulent suites, which are named after the many prominent Tudor figures who have become entwined with Thornbury’s history, such as the Catherine of Aragon suite, which is reached via a 77-step stone spiral staircase. 

Naturally, the most palatial of these rooms is named after Henry VIII, and it is the exact same room in which the king stayed with Anne Boleyn while on his royal tour. 

I stayed in the Catherine Howard suite, named after Henry VIII’s fifth wife. While Howard didn’t stay in Thornbury herself, the Howard family have a strong connection with the place as they played a big role in rescuing Thornbury. So naturally, the room is impressively opulent. 

For example, the four-poster bed had the Howard family crest carved into it, and there was a complimentary bottle of artisan sloe gin on the side table. Everything in the room, from the carpets to the regal fireplace and the elaborate mouldings on the ceilings, reminded me that I was in a place that had once hosted royalty.

Food fit for a king (or a queen)

Thornbury’s bedrooms are fit for a king (or queen) and the food is of a similarly high standard. The kitchen prides itself on sourcing most of the ingredients it uses from local farms, or growing them in the hotel’s own kitchen garden. Its efforts have won it accolades, including three prestigious rosettes from the AA. 

Sitting under portraits of distinguished family members and coats of arms, I enjoyed a three-course dinner in Thornbury’s stately dining rooms. The roasted halibut fillet with salt cod mash, barbecued gem lettuce, clams and mussels was particularly worthy of note.

Strolling around the entensive grounds is a great way to walk it all off. As for the gardens, which feature a miniature maze, they are best enjoyed on a sunny afternoon, with a cool drink. 

For those after a little more action, Thornbury’s friendly staff can organise a host of activities, ranging from a guided tour of the castle to longbow archery, falconry and even axe throwing for the full Tudor experience. On the other hand, if you would rather simply unwind, Thornbury can help you relax with aromatherapy, massages and reflexology sessions offered in its treatment rooms.

To get the most out of a stay at Thornbury Castle, you’ll want to stay a few nights. But even if you find yourself simply passing by, you will at least want to stop in to sample the hotel’s afternoon tea and Champagne. That way, you can soak up the atmosphere for an hour or two – a worthwhile experience judging by the tables full of happy families enjoying the tea and cakes in the lounge.

Matthew was a guest at Thornbury Castle. Rates are from £299 a night.