Review: Windjammer Landing – unwind in stunning Saint Lucia

Whenever I travel to the Caribbean, I’m reminded of the discussion the Greek-Irish travel writer Lafcadio Hearn had aboard a steamboat, travelling from New York to the French West Indian island of Martinique in the summer of 1887. 

What, asks Hearn, constitutes the colour “tropical blue”? As the ship nears the Antilles, Hearn repeatedly declares he’s seen it only to be rebuffed by a fellow passenger, “a nice old French gentleman from Guadeloupe”. “He tells me I do not yet know what blue water is,” laments Hearn. 

These days, we fly and we don’t get to see the gradual change in the colour of the sea. By the time my partner and I arrived at Windjammer Landing on Saint Lucia, an island to the south of Martinique, it was already after dark. That was no bad thing. I like the surprise of waking up somewhere new. Besides, Liam, one of the attentive butlers, was on hand to check us in to the room – or rather rooms.

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The next morning, I padded into the living room of our spacious three-bedroom villa and peered through the curtains. There it was, tropical blue – once my eyes had adjusted. “Under the sun the sea is a flaming, dazzling lazulite,” Hearn wrote 137 years ago. It had not changed. 

The views from the seafront villas are spectacular and from the vantage point of our private infinity pool, we watched the ruby sun dissolve into the Caribbean Sea every evening. Inside, the villas are no less impressive. The interiors are all clean white lines, creamy hues and stone floors. 

In ours, two of the bedrooms open onto the pool terrace and these have the largest bathrooms with his and hers sinks and showers, a standalone tub in each and an outdoor shower in the en-suite attached to the master bedroom. In the main living area, there is a fully equipped kitchen with an induction hob and several wide TVs scattered throughout the villa. But who comes to Saint Lucia to watch TV?

Windjammer Landing runs up the hill facing the water and equally fine views can be had from almost anywhere on the property, not least from Papa Don’s, the resort’s Italian restaurant up the hill. It’s best to take the all-inclusive option as that way you can enjoy Windjammer’s six other eateries without worrying about the bill. 

Windjammer, located on Labrelotte Bay between the capital Castries to the south and the fascinating colonial-era fort at Pigeon Island to the north – both 30 minutes away by car – isn’t exactly remote, but you will need wheels to get around or hire a guide for half a day via the resort, as we did.

Blue sea, green island

Besides Papa Don’s, there’s steak restaurant Upper Deck (fabulous views); Indian eatery Masala (Liam recommends the butter chicken); Jammers for burgers and goat roti; Embers for lunch on the beach; The Perch bar and lounge for more great views; and, our favourite, Dragonfly for a Caribbean buffet every Thursday, and freshly prepared seafood, such as grilled conch in souski sauce – a local dressing of oil, vinegar, shallots and herbs. 

Then, enjoy a beer by the main pool while listening to the bands play in the warm evenings. This is the hub of the resort around which most of the restaurants and bars are clustered. 

Windjammer’s architectural look is Mediterranean meets contemporary chic, and the resort comes alive in the evening with lights, live music and the clinking of glasses. You could imagine yourself at a village fiesta in Spain if it weren’t for the twang of the steel pan drums calling you back to the Caribbean. 

The spa, on the other hand, is an oasis of calm. We were treated to a couple’s massage, with bamboo rollers, hot stones and wraps. What parts of us hadn’t melted away by that point were left to dissolve in the tub, with a bottle of wine.

Saint Lucia is a vibrant, colourful island, from the food, music and clothing to the “Jump Up” street parties held every Friday night for the past 40 years, not far from Pigeon Island. The islanders are genuinely warm and friendly. And while tropical blue surrounds Saint Lucia, the island itself is decidedly green. There are the pair of Piton peaks for instance, rising up like two giant sugarloafs, and the rainforest that still occupies much of the island. 

During our stay, we embarked on the three-hour Jacquot Trail, run by Rainforest Adventure. Watch out, though. Besides the colourful parrot for which the trail is named, there are boa constrictors and the Fer-de-lance viper, and tarantulas scuttle across the forest floor. But don’t worry. As our guide Nian cooly put it, “just try not to fall down”. 

Chris was a guest of Windjammer Landing. A hilltop two-bedroom villa with a pool costs from $1,436 a night, all-inclusive (children under 11 eat for free). With thanks to the Saint Lucia Tourism Authority