It was on a beautiful day in Pembrokeshire last spring when, driving past the carpets of bluebells and golden daffodils, and with the rolling Preseli Hills in the background, we arrived at our destination – a rustic country retreat called Grove of Narberth.
We hadn’t prepared ourselves to receive such a warm welcome as we did – croeso, as they say in Welsh.
It can sometimes be hard to make yourself feel truly at home when staying at a hotel, especially when the hotel is an award-winning residence with a Michelin Key in its pocket. But I needn’t have feared – Grove of Narberth made it happen.
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The hotel is comfortable and modern without losing any of its character. You’ll notice that in the hand-pressed ferns on the walls, for example, and in the scent of rhubarb, Japanese spinach and strawberry mint wafting through the garden if you come in the right season, although the property is charming all the year round.
A beautiful room in the Longhouse
Every room, too, has its distinct and individual appeal. Mine had been a shelter in the original 15th-century longhouse. Today, it looks onto the gardens, which are especially lovely when in bloom.
Grove is also an ideal base from which to explore the natural beauty that Wales has to offer, starting with the rugged coastline and the string of beaches nearby.
While a stay here is very much about going at your own pace, guests are encouraged to explore the environs, whether that means hiking along the coast, visiting the 12th-century St. Davids Cathedral, or pondering the 5,500-year-old dolmen at Pentre Ifan. Incidentally, the bluestones used for Stonehenge in Wiltshire came from the nearby Preseli Hills.
You could even try your hand at a new water sport. As I discovered, riding the waves is not my strong suit, but you can at least recover from your exertions with a visit to the Wildwater Sauna – a cosy wood-fired retreat perched on the shore.
Otherwise, back at Grove, you can rinse off the salt and warm your toes in front of the fire before enjoying an evening of fine dining to calm your senses.
Enjoy the seaside from the comfort of a sauna
Great food made with local produce
At The Fernery, Grove’s fine-dining restaurant, executive chef Douglas Balish brings a sense of refinement to his menus, which are designed around using local produce and minimising waste.
Some of the ingredients are grown onsite, with the rest sourced from neighbouring farms. It’s also not uncommon to find freshly foraged herbs making an appearance on your plate.
So, as you would aspect, the dishes evolve with the seasons. And whether you’re after a vegetarian meal or a non-alcoholic pairing, chef Douglas and Cathryn Bell, the head sommelier who brings serious thought to her wines, will make sure you’re well looked after. One highlight of the drinks that I enjoyed was a bold blend of Assamese Earl Grey and pumpkin juice infused with yuzu.
Delicious teatime treats
Explore the area by bike
The next morning, we drove the 20 minutes to Tenby for a blustery rib boat tour around Caldey Island. The island is home to a number of Cistercian monks (also known as “trappists”), who rely on tourism and making chocolate and perfumes to make ends meet.
It most certainly felt like a near-religious experience when we spotted the first puffin of the season, as confirmed by our boat operator, Rob. The little seabird was swimming solo among razorbills
and a bob of seals.
As I boarded the train to go back home, it struck me that I had gone the entire trip without eating a single Welsh cake – a traditional teatime treat. These picau ar y maen, to give them their Welsh name, are delicate bakestones with a hint of nutmeg and flavoured with currants and raisins. They’re best eaten hot off the griddle.
It was then that I remembered the gift bag I had been handed when leaving Grove. Sure enough, inside was a packet of Welsh cakes fresh from the hotel’s kitchen. Come here for the daffodils, stay for the people. What they do is quite special. Diolch, Grove.
Oojal was a guest of Grove of Narberth. The Byre garden suite costs from £260 a night. Tenby Boat Trips offers a one-hour tour from £20 per person. Wild Water Sauna sessions start from £15 per person. For more details about holidays in Pembrokeshire, go to visitpembrokeshire.com.
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