Review: Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa – revel in the quiet madness of Kefalonia

Kefalonia isn’t one of those Greek islands tourists come “to conquer”. It doesn’t have a long list of sights to tick off as “done”, as on some other islands – although Kefalonia certainly doesn’t want for beauty. Nothing to worry Crete, say, or Santorini. The main town of Argostoli was largely rebuilt following a devastating earthquake in 1953.

So, the aeroplane loads of tourists tend to pass over Kefalonia and I get the impression Kefalonians aren’t too worried. But then, Kefalonians have long had a reputation for being a bit odd. There’s even a word for it – kourlamara, often translated as “madness”. A better translation might be “world weariness”.

Waves of invaders have come and gone over the centuries. The usual suspects – the Franks, Venetians, Ottomans, French, British and most recently the Italians and Germans in the World War II; they have all had to contend with the locals’ famous sardonicism.

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When Andreas Laskaratos, a local writer, was excommunicated in the 19th century for being a bit cheeky, he asked the bishop to excommunicate his boots, too, so he could take them with him. Kourlamara is the madness of “the knowing fool”.

Kourlamara also refers to the pride Kefalonians feel for their island. In the taxi from the airport, I made the glib observation that small islands are so charming. The driver put me straight. “Kefalonia,” he said, with a whiff of indignation, “is the largest of the Ionian islands.” And so it is – despite Corfu, next door, being better known.

What kourlamara is not is xenophobia (in spite of the invaders). Many were the greetings we received from locals tending to their gardens as we walked to the tiny village of Spartia – and down to the lovely little beach of the same name. Hospitality – or xenia – was also present at our hotel.

Serenity by the pool

Perhaps “hotel” is another mistranslation. Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa, a Relais & Châteaux property, might better be thought of as a retreat. A dozen or so guest villas are huddled together on a hill, facing the sea. The vista is beautiful.

From our private infinity pool, tall cypress trees frame the view; the green headland providing the backdrop. It is a lovely spot to while away an afternoon, dipping into Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Louis de Bernières’s novel, which is set on the island.

As for the villa, it has been built in the Greek-island style – rough-hewn stone walls that blend in with the surroundings. A thatch canopy shields the little table outside the rear doors from the sun.

Inside, the walls are white or neutral shades, with woven mats on the stone floor in keeping with the aesthetic of natural simplicity – rustic, yet neat.

There is a television in the corner of the sitting area as you enter from the pool terrace, but it is discrete and tucked away. Here, you will also find a sink, fridge, kettle and coffee machine. Up a couple of steps is the bedroom proper.

There is a large bed facing the rear doors and the view, and just around the corner, you’ll find a bathroom with twin sinks, a rain shower and a door leading to another shower outside.

The villa’s front door, opposite the bathroom, exits onto a path that winds its way uphill through a Mediterranean garden to the restaurant and bar, called Olais.

Good food in a beautiful environment

The decor follows the same theme of wood, stone and wicker as in the villas, and here too, the main attraction is to be found outside.

The restaurant’s exterior wall facing the gardens and the sea is made of glass and it can be folded away to let the Mediterranean in. The terrace on the other side is ideal for enjoying a cocktail before a dinner of fresh vegetables, breads, grilled meats and seafood – simple dishes, yet creatively done.

Kefalonian wine, I might add, is well worth trying and, it seems, another secret of the islanders. The kitchen also puts on cookery classes and barbecue nights throughout the summer.

Good food in a neat, rustic setting – this is the ethos of Greek living. It’s about getting back to basics. So, you are encouraged to take a pilates class up on the hill, or practise yoga in the morning with the sea view for your inspiration. You can refresh yourself with a swim in the communal, salt-water pool afterwards.

Close by, you will also find the spa. What you won’t find on the spa menu is vogue-ish gadgets and convoluted spa treatments – just thorough, no-nonsense massages focused on relieving pain and stress in the joints and muscles to reinvigorate the body, the way it’s been done for millennia.

So, you can see why the Kefalonians are happy enough in their kourlamara, welcoming those who come to share in it. Kefalonia is an island of rugged charm, wonderful food and wine, and plenty of sunshine, where life runs just a little slower. That doesn’t sound so mad to me.

Chris was a guest of Eliamos Villas Hotel & Spa, which reopens on 1 May 2026. From €759 a night, including breakfast, based on two people sharing an Amos Sea View Suite with Private Pool.

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