Review: Bequia Beach Hotel – nostalgic fun in the Caribbean

Pop stars, prime ministers and princesses can keep Mustique. Ten miles to the north, across the Caribbean Sea, veering slightly to the west as you go, lies a more interesting and colourful island called Bequia (pronounced “Beq-way”).

For sure, Bequia isn’t exactly undiscovered. Both islands form part of The Grenadines of St Vincent. To the south of Bequia, you will find the island of Canouan with its exclusive Sandy Lane Yacht Club, while back on Bequia, Princess Margaret used to make the short hop over from Mustique to visit. There is a beach named after her.

So, Bequia is no stranger to the rich and famous. But, like the big sister to a bratty pop-starlet, Bequia has held onto its authenticity better. It doesn’t pretend to be anything more than what it is – a beautiful little Caribbean island of pretty little houses on the rolling hills overlooking bays of crystalline water.

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It was during a walk along the deserted beach at Friendship Bay, on the eastern side of the island, when in 2004 Bengt Mortstedt, a Swede, came across a derelict bed and breakfast. The building was in a sorry state, but the location was “stunning”. So he bought it, along with the adjoining properties and as much land as he could lay his hands on.

His intention had been to build a holiday home for his family. But not one to shy away from grand ambitions, he decided to build a resort instead, despite having no experience of such things. Hurricane Ivan had other ideas, arriving later that year to carry away the beach. But finally, after many adventures, Bequia Beach Hotel opened in 2009.

Today, the resort is reachable from Britain via a 45-minute flight from Barbados. You may be able to catch Bengt at the weekly “owner’s cocktail” evenings at the Beach Bar, where he will regale you with the stories over a “Mr Bengt” cocktail before dinner.

A luxury resort with character

In a way, Bengt never gave up on his original plan to build a holiday home. Rather, Bequia Beach Hotel is what became of it. In the lounge, for example, you will discover old suitcases piled on top of shelves stuffed with well-thumbed books, rattan sofas and Don the Beachcomber-style kitsch table lamps beneath colonial-style ceiling fans – all after Bengt’s own taste and all quietly nostalgic.

On the walls here and in the guest suites hang faux-vintage travel posters advertising a care-free lifestyle in Santa Monica, Cuba and, naturally, the Bequia Beach Hotel itself. In my beachfront suite, palm-tree motifs intermingle with bamboo and dark-wood furniture.

But look up and you will see something that I’ll wager you won’t find anywhere else in the Caribbean. The wooden ceiling has been treated to a semi-transparent white-wash effect, called dimma in Sweden. And then, there’s the beach – right outside the patio doors.

Personal, familial touches abound at Bequia Beach Hotel and together they give the resort a relaxed, informal atmosphere. Nothing is taken too seriously. The staff are all smiles and occasionally I would bump into Bengt’s son, Philip, on his way to check on “Sally” – not a guest but rather the resort’s desalination plant, of which Philip speaks fondly.

The food is high quality, but unpretentious. It’s worth going along to the “Seafood Fest” at Bagatelle, the main restaurant on the beach, where you can dine on lobster tails, conch, kingfish and shrimp skewers sizzling on the barbecue, to be served alongside local favourites, such as yam pie and “mac and cheese” ($85).

Back from the beach, a little up the hill, you will find the cosy Italian Blue Tropic restaurant. Do try the delicious lobster ravioli.

Here, by the restaurant, you will also find a second, quieter freshwater pool compared with the larger, main pool situated down the hill, and a saltwater pool that faces the beach.

Whatever you decide to do during your stay – whether it’s to hire a boat from the island’s pretty little main town of Port Elizabeth to take you around The Grenadines, stopping to swim with turtles and for a lunch of grilled lobster tails and cold beer on what is little more than a sandbar overrun with wild iguanas (highly recommended) – a visit to Jack’s Beach Bar is a must.

The fried chicken served at Jack’s Beach Bar is a local secret, but I can’t see it staying that way for long. The location, on the always calm, western side of the island at Admiralty Bay, is a Caribbean idyll – limpid water and golden sand surrounded by a collar of green hills. Here, the local wag advertises “Free beer tomorrow” from his colourful drinks stand on the beach.

Jack’s Beach Bar throws off similar beachbum vibes to the Soggy Dollar Bar in the British Virgin Islands. But unlike that famous watering hole, you can still just about claim to have discovered this one. Thirsty sailors used to swim up to the Soggy Dollar Bar with their money in their pockets – hence the name.

But at Jack’s Beach Bar, you can simply sign your drinks and fried chicken to your room, since it is owned by Bequia Beach Hotel, and then jump on the shuttle to take you back to the resort. Easy.

Bequia Beach Hotel's newest villa

Bequia Beach Hotel has continued to evolve since it first opened and on 24 November The Rock Villa will become the latest addition to the resort’s Grenadine Hills collection of now-three rental villas.

It has been built into the rock face, just up from the hotel’s The Sand Bar – yes, guests have the choice of two beach bars at Friendship Bay – and it is the biggest of the trio.

Depending on how many friends you bring, it is either Bequia’s smallest boutique hotel (you can rent out the eight suites individually), or the island’s largest private rental villa (you can rent out the whole thing).

It is palatial and self-contained, but guests can also stroll down the beach to use the resort’s facilities, stopping for a sunset rum punch at the revamped The Sand Bar on the way.

Natural materials have been used for the ceiling fans and window blinds, while white stone and warm-hued woods make up the rest of the interiors (except for the ceilings where you will find that Scandinavian dimma effect again). It all feels clean, modern and bright.

The kitchen is spacious and there is a dining room that can seat couples as well as larger groups. Downstairs, you will find a cosy cinema with stylish armchairs by French designer brand Roche Bobois. Each of the bedrooms has its own bathroom and terrace.

There are also plenty of shared outdoor spaces, not least of which is the infinity pool, which offers sweeping views of the Grenadines, thanks to The Rock Villa’s vantage point on the hill. That includes Mustique, which you may now naturally look down on.

Chris was a guest of Bequia Beach Hotel and Audley Travel. From £660 a night on a bed-and- breakfast basis, including taxes. Exclusive use rates available upon request, bequiabeachhotel.com.

A 14-day trip to the Caribbean with Audley Travel includes nine nights in Bequia at the Bequia Beach Hotel and three nights in Barbados and costs from £4,300 per person (based on two travelling). The price includes international and inter-island flights, transfers and accommodation on a B&B basis, 01993-838275 / audleytravel.com.

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