A perfect sauvignon blanc

2017 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly The cosmic balance and inescapable magic of this sauvignon blanc made it a perfect 20/20 in my tasting notes, says Matthew Jukes.

2017 Blanc Fume de Pouilly

Pierre MERAT

2017 Blanc Fum de Pouilly, Barre Mine, Michel Redde et Fils, Loire, France£37.50, Goedhuis & Co, 020-7793 7900,

I tasted this wine on 31 January and it moved me so much that I wanted to write it up on the spot. It provides a once-in-a-lifetime sauvignon-blanc experience, but, sadly, it was not due to arrive in the UK until later in the year.

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Since then, I have been playing a game trying to think of a finer wine made from this oft-derided grape. I cannot think of a single one that combines all of the epic sauvignon-blanc attributes in a single wine. Pavillon Blanc du Chteau Margaux; Haut-Brion Blanc (OK, this has semillon on board); Gembrook Hill; early Cloudy Bay; countless Chavignols from Cotat; Redde's own wines; Cantina Terlano; Colterenzio; Reverdy; Spottswoode; Casa Marn; Daguenea; Dog Point; Te Whare Ra; The Berrio; Iona; Via Leyda; Dry Creek Vineyard; Larry Cherubino's epic 2017; The Lane Vineyard's Gathering (again with semillon loitering with intent); Shaw & Smith; Cape Point Vineyards; Duckhorn; Greywacke; Boulay; Pell and on and on all these wines are fantastic sauvignon blancs, but none of them are as complete nor as enchanting as 2017 Barre Mine.

The cosmic balance and inescapable magic made it a perfect 20/20 in my tasting notes. Barre Mine translates as Crowbar. Never has such a blunt instrument inspired such an exquisite flavour. It is finally in the UK and Goedhuis only has 25 cases, so hurry.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (




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