Advertisement

A perfect sauvignon blanc

2017 Blanc Fumé de Pouilly The cosmic balance and inescapable magic of this sauvignon blanc made it a perfect 20/20 in my tasting notes, says Matthew Jukes.

2017 Blanc Fume de Pouilly

Pierre MERAT

2017 Blanc Fum de Pouilly, Barre Mine, Michel Redde et Fils, Loire, France£37.50, Goedhuis & Co, 020-7793 7900, goedhuis.com

I tasted this wine on 31 January and it moved me so much that I wanted to write it up on the spot. It provides a once-in-a-lifetime sauvignon-blanc experience, but, sadly, it was not due to arrive in the UK until later in the year.

Advertisement - Article continues below

Since then, I have been playing a game trying to think of a finer wine made from this oft-derided grape. I cannot think of a single one that combines all of the epic sauvignon-blanc attributes in a single wine. Pavillon Blanc du Chteau Margaux; Haut-Brion Blanc (OK, this has semillon on board); Gembrook Hill; early Cloudy Bay; countless Chavignols from Cotat; Redde's own wines; Cantina Terlano; Colterenzio; Reverdy; Spottswoode; Casa Marn; Daguenea; Dog Point; Te Whare Ra; The Berrio; Iona; Via Leyda; Dry Creek Vineyard; Larry Cherubino's epic 2017; The Lane Vineyard's Gathering (again with semillon loitering with intent); Shaw & Smith; Cape Point Vineyards; Duckhorn; Greywacke; Boulay; Pell and on and on all these wines are fantastic sauvignon blancs, but none of them are as complete nor as enchanting as 2017 Barre Mine.

The cosmic balance and inescapable magic made it a perfect 20/20 in my tasting notes. Barre Mine translates as Crowbar. Never has such a blunt instrument inspired such an exquisite flavour. It is finally in the UK and Goedhuis only has 25 cases, so hurry.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

Advertisement
Advertisement

Recommended

Visit/519374/the-top-festive-tipples
Wine

The top festive tipples

MoneyWeek wine columnist Matthew Jukes rounds up the best wines for your Christmas meals.
13 Dec 2019
Visit/spending-it/wine/601583/a-new-dawn-for-douro-reds
Wine

Wine of the week: a new dawn for Douro reds

Many Douro red wines seem to lack polish and sophistication. Not this one.
3 Jul 2020
Visit/spending-it/wine/601543/a-phenomenal-plush-chardonnay
Wine

Wine of the week: a phenomenal, plush chardonnay

With stunning depth and juiciness, plush, but controlled oak and serious length, this is a phenomenal wine.
26 Jun 2020
Visit/spending-it/wine/601510/a-simply-perfect-english-white
Wine

Wine of the week: a simply perfect English sparkler

This is, without doubt, the most resonant and beautiful English wine I have ever tasted.
19 Jun 2020

Most Popular

Visit/economy/inflation/601584/the-end-of-the-bond-bull-market-and-the-return-of-inflation
Inflation

The end of the bond bull market and the return of inflation

Central bank stimulus, surging post-lockdown demand and the end of the 40-year bond bull market. It all points to inflation, says John Stepek. Here’s …
30 Jun 2020
Visit/investments/commodities/gold/601587/bullish-gold-price-cup-and-handle-chart-pattern
Gold

This chart pattern could be extraordinarily bullish for gold

The mother of all patterns is developing in the gold charts, says Dominic Frisby. And if everything plays out well, gold could hit a price that invest…
1 Jul 2020
Visit/investments/property/601606/house-prices-crash-uk-property-prices-falling-where-next
Property

House price crash: UK property prices are falling – so where next?

With UK property prices falling for the first time in eight years, are we about to see a house price crash? John Stepek looks at what’s behind the sli…
2 Jul 2020