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These three Portuguese wines are sheer heaven
2015 Niepoort This series of Niepoort wines left Matthew Jukes reeling with delight.
I am a fan of the wines from the legendary Niepoort portfolio, but I have always felt that the wines stopped just short of genuine excellence. Everything changed at the annual Wines of Portugal tasting, where a series of Niepoort wines left me reeling with delight. I have three for you.
First, VV Branco, a white made from 100-year-old Maria Gomes and bical vines. On account of the high acid in these grapes, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in 1,000-litre foudres, which were sourced from the Mosel more than 60 years ago. With only 11.5% alcohol, a truly ethereal flavour and so much complexity and beauty in the glass, this is one of the lightest and most mesmerising white winesI have ever tasted.
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The 2015 Poeirinho, Bairrada (about £40, theatreofwine.com, drinkmonger.com) is a red made from the baga grape. Pale in colour, low in alcohol (11.5%), hypnotic and weightless, it makes the slenderest of pinot noirs look like it needs to get on a treadmill. Drink it slightly chilled.
Lastly, 2016 Tiara, Douro (£23.99, lewisandcooper.co.uk; 01609-772880) is made from 60-year-old-plus vines, cdega do larinho is the predominant grape variety and the vineyards are situated at 600 metres above sea level in the Douro. Juicy and floral, this is a relatively generous white and yet, again, the beauty here is undeniable. All three wines are sheer heaven.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)
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Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.
He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.
Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.
