2017 Wiltinger, Riesling Trocken, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Saar, Germany £12.55 from the Wine Society, 01438-741177, TheWineSociety.com
This week’s column is about magic. Not the David Copperfield or Penn & Teller style of magic, but real magic. Not sleight of hand, not camera tricks, not misdirection or illusionism – real magic you can touch and indeed taste. The 2017 Rieslings from von Kesselstatt are true vinous magic and I have no less than three for you this week, and they are all obscenely good value for money.
First, my featured wine, the beautiful Wiltinger Trocken. This is guaranteed to cast a spell on your senses – it is so enchanting. There is a crystalline purity to this Riesling which lifts the mood, pierces the senses and caresses your taste buds all at the same time. When I first tasted this wine, I sighed.
I actually emitted a sigh – not a huff, a groan or an aah, but a genuine fair-maiden-style sigh. It is effortlessly graceful and wholly magical, with flawless aromatics and a luminous palate. It is guaranteed to amaze you with its charms.
If you would like to up the drama, then the Wine Society (see information above) also stocks 2017 Kaesler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett (£14.95), which brings daredevil poise to an already epic performance. The 2017 Kaesler Nies’chen Riesling Spätlese (£19.50), also from the Wine Society, adds a degree of juiciness and flair to these attributes and may possibly bring a tear to the eye. Abracadabra indeed.