A biodynamic red to blow sceptics’ minds

2013 Cullen, Mangan East Block, Margaret River, Western Australia (£30, Laithwaites.co.uk).

Vanya is one of the most inspirational and talented winemakers in the world and she is a fervent proponent of "biodynamism". This means the Cullen regime follows the moon's cycles closely and ensures the vineyard is in perfect harmony with nature. Too often this mantra is trotted out by random vignerons and the wines invariably disappoint. Vanya's wines, however, possess uncommon resonance. This makes them compelling, vital, and in most cases nothing short of magnificent.

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While KJ (the 2014 is £73.30) and DM (the 2013 is £71.80, both from Hedonism.co.uk) are made in tiny quantities, there are two other wines I adore. The 2014 Mangan Vineyard Semillon (£21.99, www.ozwines.co.uk) and my featured red, a petit verdot/malbec blend, both sing.

The semillon pulses with strident florals, ginger slivers and lime zest, and East Block wears sooty, mulberry and potpourri nuances. The use of old French oak elevates its aroma to anthemic proportions. Cullen wines help us understand how effective biodynamic practices can be. They will blow sceptics' minds and thrill others besides.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.