Wine of the week: a joyful and classy riesling

Fred Loimer's decision to grow grapes by the phases of the moon has proven to be a wise one, says Matthew Jukes, as this sensational riesling proves.

2009 Loimer, Terrassen Riesling Reserve, Kamptal, Austria (£18.99, Waitrose).

Fred Loimer received his official biodynamic certification in 2009 after three years of converting from organic viticulture to another version of farming, which uses the moon's phases as a guide for when to plant and so on. I opened a grner veltliner from this very same vineyard for a large corporate event the other day, suggesting that it might woo intellectual palates away from indifferent sauvignon blancs not one person disagreed!

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