A crisp, teeth-tingling Savoie

2009 Apremont, Les Rocailles, Savoie, France (£7.99, Waitrose or £7.59, by the case, www.waitrosewine.com ).

There is a massive bolt of nostalgia welling up in me as I type this column. I haven't drunk an Apremont in ages, so Les Rocailles is a massive treat. Perhaps that's because I have missed out on a few years' worth of French skiing holidays, or maybe it's just that Britain doesn't really get into the wines of Savoie like those on the piste.

Either way, this extraordinary, dry white wine is drunk during the winter, more often than not, by us Brits, and this is completely and utterly ridiculous, because it is nothing short of masterful in the summer entertaining arena.

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Crisp, teeth-tingling acidity, Alpine freshness and lime and green apple notes puncture the palate as you soothe your taste buds with a large draught. It's stunning with salads, delicious with all manner of crustacea and heavenly with quiches and savoury tarts.

Turn your world upside down this week and drink this verdant wine in the summer for once you will never look back. Oh, and before I go, here's a fabulous snippet of wine trivia. The grape used to make Apremont is the almost-extinct Jacqure and, yes, I had to look it up!

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year ( www.matthewjukes.com ).