A noble sherry for the autumn

Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana, Amontillado Seco Napolen, Sanlcar de Barrameda, Spain 50cl bottle (£11.50, Ellis Wharton Wines, 01726 825255, www.ewwines.co.uk; £11.95, Noel Young Wines, 01223-566744, www.nywines.co.uk).

Certain Mazanilla sherries, during the ageing process when the wine is slumbering in butts of American oak which form part of the time-honoured solera system, just don't taste like the others. These rare barrels have a deeper, nuttier, figgy flavour, and so they are removed from the process and kept apart to age oxidatively, and they are known as Amontillados.

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Chill it down just a few degrees and drink it with grouse (after you've deglazed the roasting pan with half a glass). This is an exceptional food and wine combo. Try it with charcuterie, rillettes, pte and mature hard cheese again serious matches. This noble and exceptionally well-priced wine is a quintessential autumnal flavour, and if you have never tasted it, then you will not believe your taste buds.