A suave, dry champagne from a small grower

NV Larmandier-Bernier, Terre de Vertus, 1er Cru Non-Dos, Champagne, France (£49.99, Selfridges Wonder Bar, 020-7318 2476).

I am utterly obsessed with 'small grower' champagnes. Producers such as Andr Jacquart; Jacquesson; Brche; Jrme Prvost; Claude Carr; Dehours; J. Dumangin; Egly-Ouriet; Gatinois, A. Margaine; Paul Dthune; Pertois-Moriset the list is endless.

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I have followed these wines for a decade and every cuve made here is astonishingly good. The new 2004 Vieille Vigne de Cramant Grand Cru is my highest pointing champagne so far this year (19/20), but only half a point behind is this suave, bone dry, single-village wine.

The label has a picture of the soil from the vineyard and it points to the authenticity of flavour and vital signature that the earth brings to the grapes grown in it.

Do yourself a favour and visit Selfridges Wonder Bar. You will find this wine there and many other superb choices too!

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year.

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.