Review: Moar Gut is a first-class choice for a family holiday in Austria

“These mountains to the right are the northern tip of the Alps, and they are actually in Germany. And over there is the Eagle's Nest, a chalet perched on a mountaintop, which was Hitler's 50th birthday present.” We are getting a history and geography lesson from our taxi driver as we set off from Salzburg airport. Our children, aged seven and nine, have never seen the Alps before or visited Austria or Germany, so this is a triple whammy of excitement. The scenery and clean mountain air as our people carrier climbs ever higher is a welcome break from the London heatwave we have escaped.

Our destination is Moar Gut, a family resort an hour from Salzburg, set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Hohe Tauern National Park. It's early summer, and my husband and I take in the big blue sky, lush green mountains, traditional chalets, the sound of cow bells as livestock wander around, and pretty wildflowers. Look closer and you'll spot ponies, tractors, rivers and waterfalls – a rural idyll if you will.

The hotel continues this theme with its swimming lake, riding stable and organic farm. Family-run by the Kendlbacher family since 1995, Moar Gut is a ten-hectare, car-free resort, blending luxury with nature. It offers activities all year round. In the warmer months, that means swimming, cycling, hiking, archery, horse riding and tennis.

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We check into our stylish suite, which has a Scandinavian feel with wooden ceiling and floor, and a kids' bedroom with bunk beds. And then, we're off to explore. First, a swim. We jump into the lake. It's certainly refreshing. Our daughter spots tadpoles, and I take a moment to admire the yellow irises, woodland geraniums and sea thrifts growing nearby.

To warm up, there are two heated pools – one inside and one outside. Our son enjoys the family sauna and the steep, metal wasserrutsche – a pure adrenaline rush of a water slide. Later, we sign the kids up for archery, and my husband and I relax in the adults-only spa, switching between the whirlpool and steam room.

Family friendly fun at Moar Gut

There's plenty to do here, and the resort feels friendly and safe, meaning our children wander off to pet the rabbits, play basketball or hang out in the teenagers' den with video games. There's trampolining too, and a gym plus yoga and reformer pilates classes for the grown-ups.

Moar Gut aims to be perfect for intergenerational families and we meet one from southeast England with three generations ranging in age from five to 85. It is their third visit. It has got busier each time, they tell me, and now there are more British families (the secret is out, perhaps!), but they still love it.

It is our first time, and I think it feels exclusive with impeccable service. There are 46 family rooms and two double rooms and 110 staff. This means whether you want to ask someone about the best hiking routes, find out whether there's peanut in the dessert (our daughter has an allergy), or order an Austrian sparkling wine or even a cigar in the evening, you can always ask.

The resort is full-board with breakfast and lunch buffets, and a gourmet à la carte dinner for the adults (the kids get a buffet). Guests can order extras at a price, such as escargots, oysters and fondue.

At lunch we try traditional fare such as mushroom goulash and beef broth. Our son loved the beetroot dumplings with pesto and goat's cheese, while our daughter had second helpings of the farmhouse doughnuts with apricot jam. There's also fish fingers and pizza, which should suit the fussier kids, and a baby bar with freshly prepared purées.

The childcare is excellent. The kids' club is open from 9am to 9pm for those ranging from 30 days' old to teenagers. Our kids make some friends on an afternoon picnic for those aged seven and up, and meet up again the next evening for a mocktail-making session.

There's enough to do in Moar Gut, but we were keen to see more of the national park (Austria's oldest and biggest), so we headed out on a 1.5-hour guided waterfall hike. My smartphone quickly filled up as I took dozens of photos of the eye-popping scenery. If our holiday had been a film, it would surely be The Sound of Music with a dash of James Bond. The hills were, indeed, alive, and very beautiful. But inside Moar Gut there were 007 moments, such as the underground labyrinth connecting the buildings and some of the interior design. Think masculine luxury with sweeping curves, charcoal walls and expansive floor-to-ceiling glass. The car park full of black Audis added a certain Bond villain touch too.

Our stay was drawing to a close, and we all felt well-rested and well-fed, but also energised by the magic of Moar Gut and its extraordinary Alpine setting. If you're looking for somewhere a bit fresher this summer, a respite from hot, sticky cities and sweltering beaches, this is a first-class choice for a family holiday.

Ruth was a guest of Moar Gut. From €630 for a double room and €2,800 for a luxury suite, including full board and childcare. Visit moargut.com.

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