Review: Dine beneath the waves at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island

It is easy to succumb to “island time” in the Maldives and forget what day it is. The luxury Conrad Maldives Rangali Island resort takes that concept one step further. It operates on its own “island time” – one hour ahead of Malé, the capital of the Maldives, and five hours ahead of Britain. The result? More daylight to savour and I made every sun-soaked minute count from the serenity of my a villa built over the water.

The Maldives has no shortage of idyllic resorts, with more than 1,000 islands scattered across the Indian Ocean. But nothing truly prepares you for seeing the villas at the Conrad. The Sunset Water Villa pool stretches from the room's deck towards the turquoise sea, creating the illusion that you are floating above the ocean itself.

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The stylistically clean interior with wooden beams and sheer curtains complements the sense of tranquillity. Simply close your eyes and doze off to the sound of the sea moving beneath you. High season (November to April) rates for this villa start at around £1,199 a night.

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I was also fortunate enough to stay in a Deluxe Beach Villa with Pool. You enter through your own private courtyard, where you will find a large daybed under the open sky, perfect for an afternoon nap. At the rear, the villa opens onto your pool, with direct access to the beach. The villa also has a dressing room, minibar, bedroom area, “his and hers” bathroom and an outdoor shower. High season rates for the Deluxe Beach Villa with a Pool start at around £1,381 a night.

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Sleep underwater at The Muraka

The Conrad's most talked-about accommodation is The Muraka, a two-level residence that places guests both above and below the Indian Ocean. Upstairs, the villa opens onto a wide deck and infinity pool with beautiful sea views, while downstairs lies its real showstopper – a master bedroom under a curved glass dome, roughly 16 feet below the surface. Waking up here means watching the reef fish glide silently past your bed.

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The underwater theme continues at Ithaa Undersea Restaurant, the resort's glass-domed dining room beneath the waves. As I worked my way through a five-course menu, the standout dish for me was actually the dessert – a tofu chocolate mousse with mango coulis, fresh berries and mango sorbet. Light, fresh and the perfect end to a memorable meal.

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Dine underwater or in a wine cellar

You are spoiled for choice when it comes to dining options at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. The resort has 11 bars and eateries, including six restaurants serving everything from Chinese and Japanese to Italian, so dinner was never in the same place twice. One evening I ate in the resort's wine cellar, surrounded by around 15,000 bottles, which made for quite a dramatic setting.

But my favourite night was far simpler – a cooking class and dinner on the beach. A guitarist played as the sun set and cocktails were being mixed. I tucked into freshly made chapatis and a selection of Indian curries with a Maldivian twist. It ended up being the most memorable meal of the trip.

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The resort is also making an effort on the sustainability front. The Conrad has a small hydroponic garden growing herbs and vegetables.

Swim with a whale shark

Just because the Maldives is known for relaxation doesn't mean there isn't a sense of adventure. One of the most exhilarating moments of the trip was swimming with a whale shark. During a four-hour boat excursion, we scanned the water for manta rays and whale sharks, with a drone circling above the Indian Ocean to help spot them. When one was finally sighted, everything moved quickly. We had about 15 minutes to grab our snorkelling gear, jump into the water and watch the whale shark dive deep into the ocean.

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As for more relaxing activities, I visited the resort's overwater spa and enjoyed a full-body massage. The treatment rooms have been built above the lagoon and some even have glass floors so you can watch the fish swimming below while you're being pampered. I also took a Jet Ski out on the water, which was a fun way to break up the slower pace of island life.

Having spent a few days at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island, the concept of “island time” makes perfect sense. Life slows down and checking your watch becomes the last thing on your mind.

Vaishali was a guest of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. Rooms start from around £738 a night in the low season and £1,199 a night in the high season. Visit conradmaldives.com.

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