Autumn in Crete, the Greek island of culture

Blessed with beautiful beaches, mountains, canyons and buzzing cities, Crete undoubtedly has it all. But it’s also a fascinating window into the ancient past. 

Minoans, Mycenaeans, Romans, Arabs, Venetians and Ottomans have all come and gone and left their mark, and it’s this rich tapestry of cultures and civilisations that makes the island so special. 

Crete also plays a central role in Greek mythology. After watching Kaos on Netflix this summer – a reimagining of the Greek gods’ story set in an alternative, modern-day Crete – I felt inspired to return to my favourite mythical island for a dose of autumn sunshine.

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I started my trip in the picture-postcard coastal town of Agios Nikolaos, 60km to the east of Heraklion. My base was the newly opened InterContinental Crete – the brand’s first hotel on the Greek islands, and a slick addition to the town’s seafront. 

I liked the way the hotel’s lobby referenced ancient history with a huge sculpture of a Minotaur-Sphinx, plus small bronze creatures dotted along the handrails.

My junior suite had a stylish Cretan decor with blue-and-white colour scheme, and design touches in marble, wood and wicker. It also had a private plunge pool with views over Mirabello Bay and the mountains beyond. 

Two main infinity pools, a state-of-the-art spa with indoor pool, sauna, hammam and steam room, plus fully equipped gym meant I had more than enough for a comfortable stay.

Visit the ancient sites

No trip to Crete would be complete without visiting at least one of its museums and ancient sites, especially Knossos – the Minoan palace complex just south of Heraklion, considered to be the oldest city in Europe and the largest Bronze Age archaeological site on Crete. 

Directly behind the hotel is the Archeological Museum of Agios Nikolaos, which has a large collection of antiquities, mostly from eastern Crete. Agios Nikolaos is a lovely town for pottering in, but it can be hilly in parts, so I was glad of the free city bus. 

The hotel concierge can recommend other things to do in the area, such as taking the boat to Spinalonga, visiting the archaeological site of Lato or the Diktaion Andron cave – believed to be the birthplace of Zeus – an hour to the west. 

Across the road from the hotel is a pebble beach with sunbeds laid out exclusively for guests. So after my visit to the museum, I hot-footed it over there for a refreshing dip in the sea, followed by dinner on the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Knossos. 

The menus at the hotel’s three eateries – Zeus, Knossos and Minoan – have a Mediterranean focus, and make the most of the abundant local ingredients. I enjoyed grilled sea bass, baked cheesecake and delightful Cretan wine, including Michalakis M3 – a dry white blend of moscato, malagouzia and moschofilero. 

The ninth-floor rooftop Minoan bar is a great spot for after-dinner drinks, and when I visited, there was a DJ playing.

My next stop was Rethymno. Sitting directly between Heraklion and Chania on Crete’s northern coast, Rethymno is a characterful city known for its 16th-century Venetian Fortezza and tangle of alleyways to get lost in. 

As I’m already familiar with the town, I opted to stay a 15-minute drive away on a quieter stretch of coast with a Blue Flag beach on my doorstep. 

Grecotel LUXME White Palace is an easy-going, all-inclusive resort that sits directly on the Aegean. Spacious, light-filled and very much living up to its name, the all-white property has everything you would need for a relaxing, sun-soaked holiday. 

My room was a Luxe Yali Seafront Villa – which came with its own pool and garden that led straight onto the beach – heaven for a sea-lover like me. It also featured a living area and a bathtub with jets. Poseidon, eat your heart out. 

A tour of Greece’s wines

The food was superb, too. Along with a vast buffet at breakfast, lunch, and dinner, you can book a table at one of the hotel’s à la carte restaurants – Tavernaki (Greek), Asia White, Fico D’India (Italian), or The White, an adults-only fine dining concept. 

With candlelit tables and a sophisticated atmosphere, it was perfect for an evening under the stars. At Asia White, my table sat just inches from the waves, and I enjoyed sushi and teriyaki salmon as the ocean gently lapped below.

The highlight for me, however, was the Wine Tasting Room, where Charlotte, the sommelier, let me sample any of the 150 labels from Greece and around the world, including vegan and organic wines. 

This was something I’ve not seen at any five-star hotel, and it’s a game-changer. Not only does it take the pressure off deciding what to order at the table, it’s also a fun, low-risk way to learn about the regional wine scene.

During the day there’s complimentary yoga, pilates, and tennis, plus a drinks service on the beach. A local bus service runs to Rethymno, so you can explore the old town without battling for parking. The harbour is lined with tavernas and the Fortezza often has live music in the evenings. 

My last and final stop was at Chania and the surrounding northwest coast. Chania is a picturesque city known for its Venetian harbour, historic old town, and vibrant nightlife. 

Like Rethymno, it gets busy in the tourist season, so I chose to base myself 20 minutes along the coast at the adults-only Asterion Suites & Spa, which lies on a blissfully quiet stretch of sand at Pyrgos Psilonerou, surrounded by palm trees, mountains and ocean.

Old meets modern and new

Named after the mythological King Asterion of Crete, this five-star hotel is modern and chic, with natural materials, and soft, earthy tones. My Planet Suite featured a big, comfy bed with Egyptian cotton sheets, and a balcony perfect for enjoying my morning coffee while watching the sun rise over the mountains. 

A central freshwater pool was surrounded by breezy cabanas, and there was a stretch of beach with sunbeds and coconut-palm umbrellas to relax under. Table service was available, so you could order those all-important cocktails and freddo (iced) cappuccinos.

The hotel has two excellent restaurants. There is Matter, where a breakfast buffet and à la carte lunch are served; and 35º, an à la carte venue offering homemade Cretan dishes. Olive oil, honey, seafood, lamb, tomatoes, goat’s cheese, and watermelon are all fresh and plentiful here, and restaurant manager Manolis was always a warm and welcoming presence. 

Every Tuesday and Thursday, the hotel offers free morning yoga on the lawn, or you can book a private session with Nikoletta, one of the best yoga teachers I’ve encountered in my 34 years of practice. Afterwards, I had a back massage in the spa with Elena, who expertly worked out every knot in my back like a true pro. If you can get yourself a slot with her, do it – your body will thank you for it. 

And all too soon, it was time to bid farewell to this mythical isle, and make my way home. Crete is highly seasonal – direct flights from the UK stop during winter, and most hotels close until spring. But, Zeus willing, I’ll be back again next year.

Katie was a guest of the new InterContinental Crete, which has rooms from €235 per night for two, including breakfast. Grecotel LUXME White Palace, where the Villa Luxe Yali Seafront costs from €1,068 per night, all inclusive. Nightly rates at the Asterion Suites & Spa start at €226.80 per room, all inclusive.