Wine of the Week: a hedonistic Pinot

Award-winning wine expert Matthew Jukes picks a spectacular Pinot Noir from the 2003 vintage.

There is a lot of fuss about the 2005 vintage in Burgundy. You may have seen the various En Primeur offers flying around over the last few weeks. It is a truly serious vintage for red wine particularly, but what should you drink while these wines slumber for a few more months in barrels and then snooze for a few more years in the bottle before you dare open them? How about this spectacular Pinot Noir from the impressive 2003 vintage?

2003 Santenay Rouge, 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau, Domaine Bernard Morey, Burgundy, France (£250.27 per case including VAT £20.85 equivalent per bottle, Domaine Direct of London, 020-7837 1142).

Morey is a brilliant winemaker and Grand Clos Rousseau is the famous vineyard in the village of Santenay. For less than a bottle of Mickey Mouse Champagne, you could revel in one of the most hedonistic Pinots I've tasted in ages it is packed with wild cherry, damson and black plum fruit and there is power here, too. This is a blood and guts wine designed for hearty game dishes. Give it some air and you'll see the nose emerge blinking into the daylight and the fruit stretching its legs an hour should do it and you're confronted by an athletic, yet lithe creature, ready for action. While you are ordering this wine, ask Domaine Direct for a copy of their 2005 offer they have some first class wines in their stable.

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Matthew Jukes

Matthew Jukes has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books.  

Matthew regularly lectures, judges, speaks at wine conferences and runs masterclass tastings for both corporate and private clients all over the world. Matthew is also the creator of his ground-breaking initiative, the One Day Wine School, an indulgent day of tasting and learning first performed in 2006.

He has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006 and has written a weekly column for the Daily Mail’s Weekend Magazine since 1999. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website,

Matthew is one of the world’s leading experts on Australian wine and, with Brisbane-based wine writer Tyson Stelzer, runs an annual competition in Australia to find ‘The Great Australian Red’.  He was made Honorary Australian of the Year in the UK at the 2012 Australia Day Foundation Gala dinner. 

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy.  His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.