Three pilgrimages for food devotees

Spain is a foodie paradise. Here are three of the best destinations. Chris Carter reports.


You cannot help but notice the food in the Basque Country, says Timothy O'Grady in Cond Nast Traveller. "There are more Michelin stars per square metre here than almost anywhere else in the world." Food devotees make pilgrimages to the old quarter in San Sebastin for tapas-style pintxos, just as art lovers head for Florence. "Even a boiled egg tastes better in this town."

Two chefs from San Sebastin Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana each with three stars to their name, travelled to the food market at Ordizia, south of San Sebastin, for the annual Idiazabal cheese competition. On a table, 14 shortlisted cylindrical cheeses had been set out, "like sculptures at a Paris auction". Both chefs were "humble before the cheese".

Subscribe to MoneyWeek

Become a smarter, better informed investor with MoneyWeek.

The Basques have been able to hang on to such traditions despite the onslaught of change all around the region. How have they managed it? "We had no kings, so our business model is not the corporation, but the cooperative," a cheesemaker explains. "We're natural egalitarians." It is from such "simple ingredients as these that their tenacity is made".

Beyond the cathedral in Seville


It's a crying shame that the majority of visitors who come to Seville never get beyond the world's largest Gothic cathedral, says Adam Turner in The Guardian.

Advertisement - Article continues below

"Although the cobbled streets and alleyways that surround it are worthy of close inspection, this enchanting city has much more to offer a little further afield." Calle Feria (pictured above), just off Plaza Caldern de la Barca, "is my favourite street". The narrow road is closed every Thursday for a flea market, with everything from handmade photo frames to flamenco dresses for sale.

"Down the street at the Feria food market there's local olive oil, Seville goat's cheese, artisanal chorizo (all from Negrete 1934, a gourmet shop) and seafood (fresh tuna, salt cod and octopus empanadas)." There's loads of fresh fruit and vegetables besides. And it's not all Spanish cooking Pitacasso, "a veggie-friendly restaurant with delicious falafel pittas", is a great place to stop for a bite.

Ceviche and tiger's milk in Madrid

The capital's new food scene is heavily influenced by South American cuisine. At restaurant Tripea, Roberto Martnez Foronda and his team create a fusion of Peruvian and Spanish dishes (see below), served up in front of a psychedelic mural. His creations include hot ceviche with mussels and tiger's milk ("a Peruvian citrus-based marinade no actual tigers are milked in the process"). The market allows Martnez Foronda to experiment with fresh ingredients and new cooking styles.

"Though this restaurant has Peru at its core, it also reflects a mix of other influences," he says. But above all, "I want to make sure it has a really Spanish flavour to it". Such imaginative venues are all part of the "outpouring of Madrid's creative spirit".

Cooking Nikkei-style


"Peru's cuisine is as diverse as its landscapes and Lima is its epicentre," says Eric Rosen in National Geographic Traveller.

Lunch could be "sea-fresh ceviche paired with quinoa and potatoes from the Andes mountains, followed by a dessert of fruits from the Amazonian rainforest". The indigenous Quechua and Aymara peoples, along with immigrants from Spain, Japan and China,

Advertisement - Article continues below

have all contributed to the gastronomic mix. "Peruvian cuisine is like a puzzle of many pieces," Lima-born chef Mitsuharu Tsumura tells the magazine "and Nikkei (a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cooking) is one of them". At Tsumara's restaurant, Maido, "the standout dish is chicharrones crispy pork cooked overnight with chillies, miso and sak," says chef Sanjay Dwivedi in the Financial Times. (Maido, Calle San Martin 399, Miraflores, Lima.)



Travel and holidays

Four of the best get-away-from-it-all retreats

When the lockdown ends, head to these remote retreats for rejuvenation, says Nicole Garcia Merida.
3 Apr 2020
Personal finance

Coronavirus: how to get your money back if your holiday is cancelled

Have you had an upcoming holiday cancelled because of coronavirus? Ruth Jackson-Kirby explains how to get your cash back.
1 Apr 2020
Travel and holidays

Revive your weary spirits in a spa

When the current crisis has passed, we’ll need to take the waters. Chris Carter recommends a spa in Bath.
27 Mar 2020
Travel and holidays

The surprising joys of a Club Med ski holiday

It’s fun at Club Med – and everything is taken care of for you. What’s not to like?
20 Mar 2020

Most Popular


Three things matter for the UK housing market now – and “location” isn’t one of them

The UK housing market is frozen. And when it does eventually thaw out, the traditional factors that drive prices will no longer apply. The day of reck…
1 Apr 2020

What does the coronavirus crisis mean for UK house prices?

With the whole country in lockdown, the UK property market is closed for business. John Stepek looks at what that means for UK house prices, housebuil…
27 Mar 2020

Oil shoots higher – have we seen the bottom for the big oil companies?

Just a few days ago everyone was worried about negative oil prices. Now, the market has turned upwards. John Stepek explains what’s behind the rise an…
3 Apr 2020
UK Economy

How the coronavirus pandemic is killing cash

Covid-19 is making a huge difference to the way we live, work and do business. One of its less obvious effects, says Merryn Somerset Webb, is to accel…
31 Mar 2020