Wine of the week: a juicy, joyous Chianti

2017 Chianti, Colli Senesi, Campriano, Tuscany, Italy£12.90, reduced to £11.45 each by the case, Haynes Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927, hhandc.co.uk

Picture the scene secret agent James Bond and arch enemyLe Chiffre, sitting oppositeeach other as the stakes raiseever higher in the memorable poker scene in Casino Royale.007 carefully studies LeChiffre's face for signs of the"tell" that indicates he is bluffing.Or is he? I love this film and in particular those personal ticksthat give away how others are truly feeling.

I first tasted this wine in a line-up of bottles with Jim Eustace, managing director of wine emporium Haynes, Hanson & Clark. I never judge a wine by its label, preferring to zone in on the flavour. That way, I can be sure that it is the contents of the bottle that have stood up to my rigorous assessment rather than the artwork! However, as Jim poured this glass for me I spotted a nigh on imperceptible curve in the corner of his mouth which grew and grew.

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Try as he might, he couldn't stifle a smile, which rapidly turned into a grin. I didn't have to be a clairvoyant to figure out that he had a bit of a thing for this newly arrived vintage.

Now, this is a man who doesn't give anything away and so I knew that '17 Campriano was special and, of course, it is. This is one of the juiciest, most joyous and finest value Chiantis I have tasted in years. Daniel Craig needs to pour this wine next time he fancies a game of poker, too.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.