2016 Beaujolais-Villages Blanc, Grande Lamure, Château de Poncié, Burgundy, France. £15.99, Banstead Vintners, 01737-350168.
Coming from a vineyard situated at the foot of the Montgenas hill in Burgundy, France, and facing north-east, this chardonnay is a unique expression of Beaujolais, not least because it is white, from the village of Fleurie. The wine is also mesmerisingly delicious.
Its position is all – this vineyard’s exposition means that, while the grapes ripen fully, from an organoleptic or taste point of view, the acidity that would melt away in a warmer site and leave the wine heavy and unctuous is guarded beautifully by the vines’ limited time gazing at the sun.
In short, this is the recipe for success in an age where global warming is certainly changing the flavours of many wines markedly. Grande Lamure further augments its delicacy and succulence by cradling the fruit in older barrels on its fine lees for eight months. This is the perfect length delicate, succulentof time for the wine to exhaust the lees of their enviable powers while dressing its form in a diaphanous shift of subtle oak.
Classic red from the same estate
It will not come as a surprise to you to hear that the classic red wine from this estate is also a gem. The 2016 Fleurie, La Salomine (£20.50, Vin-Est, 01367-252861), also experiences a touch of older oak, rendering it calm, deeply fruited and classy. This red and white duo is as attractive as it gets in Beaujolais and the value afforded by this wondrous region makes them even more appealing.
• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).