Utterly mesmerising wines from Elysian cellars

This Riesling will cast a spell on your palate like nothing you have ever tasted before, says Matthew Jukes.

Matthew Jukes
By Matthew Jukes
published

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(Image credit: © Jo Bayer)

2016 Von Buhl, Bone Dry Riesling, Pfalz, Germany.About £15.50, Hennings Wine, 01798-872485; Woodwinters, 01786-834894; Salut Wines, 0161-2362 340.

Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl is one of the most famous and historic of Germany's elite wineries. Proud owner of some of the best vineyard sites in Deidesheim and Forst such as Forster Kirchenstck, Pechstein, Jesuitengarten, Freundstck and the Deidesheim sites Leinhhle, Herrgottsacker, Kiesleberg and Paradiesgarten the wines coming from this Elysian cellar have always been nothing short of utterly mesmerising.

In 2013 a new team at the estate, including managing director Richard Grosche and technical director Mathieu Kauffmann, took control of the property. I knew both men in their previous lives Richard was a wine journalist and someone who I very much enjoyed bumping into at wine conferences all over the planet, and Mathieu made the wines at Bollinger, and so I came into contact with him and his wines with alarming regularity.

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Their combined skills have given this renowned winery a new lease of life. They are churning out award-winning sparkling wines as well as the whole gamut of single-vineyard rieslings.

So allow me to reintroduce you to von Buhl with my tip for this week: it is one of the most enchanting and refreshing wines I have tasted in years. Bone Dry does what it says on the label and it will cast a spell on your palate like nothing you have ever tasted before. You must taste this wine and then I am certain you will feel moved to investigate the rest of the portfolio.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes
Matthew Jukes

Matthew Jukes has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books.  

Matthew regularly lectures, judges, speaks at wine conferences and runs masterclass tastings for both corporate and private clients all over the world. Matthew is also the creator of his ground-breaking initiative, the One Day Wine School, an indulgent day of tasting and learning first performed in 2006.

He has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006 and has written a weekly column for the Daily Mail’s Weekend Magazine since 1999. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website, www.matthewjukes.com.

Matthew is one of the world’s leading experts on Australian wine and, with Brisbane-based wine writer Tyson Stelzer, runs an annual competition in Australia to find ‘The Great Australian Red’.  He was made Honorary Australian of the Year in the UK at the 2012 Australia Day Foundation Gala dinner. 

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy.  His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.

 

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