A delicious, world-class Bordeaux

2009 Chteau Lafon-Rochet, 4me Cru, Saint-Estphe, Bordeaux (£47, Berry Bros. & Rudd, 0800-280 2440, BBR.com).

Bordeaux, as a region, seems to lack the romance of Burgundy and the wildness of the Rhne. Instead, it puts up with uninspiring countryside, empty Chteaux with their shutters drawn, and there is little joy on the gastronomic front outside of the city itself. Its famous wines are invariably expensive and so many of us look elsewhere for charming, involving and affordable tipples.

I happen to think that there is a raft of Bordeaux wines which we need to reengage with in order to rekindle our passion for this region, and my featured bottle this week is a beauty. Owner Basil Tesseron opened a cracking Lafon-Rochet the other day during a vertical tasting and the 2009 was the standout vintage. It has an amazing flavour, with furtherageing potential, and is available at a fair price. Berry Brothers & Rudd has only 34 cases in stock.

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This wine is also unique because the label is the wrong colour! The famous "custard" pantone is a few shades off because Basil had a raging hangover when asked to check the artwork. The bottle is itself therefore a collectors' item. The wine is a fabulous example of some of the heart-warming character that Bordeaux outwardly seems to lack, but inwardly has in spades. It's time to look again at affordable, delicious, world-class Bordeaux.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).