An extraordinary, earthy pinot noir

I met up with Ed Donaldson, one of the famous Donaldson clan who run the Pegasus Bay winery and restaurant, the other day and he showed me a few current releases and some sneak preview wines from one of the greatest wineries in the southern hemisphere.

I have long banged on about the special soils of Waipara and yet, in the absence of serious competition from neighbouring wineries, Waipara's fame is moving slowly, while Pegasus Bay's is skyrocketing. This sensational 2012 pinot noir gained 18.5/20 in my notes!

The extraordinary, earthy, low thrum of fruit is underpinned with an epic, savoury finish. The oak control is phenomenal, showing more elegance and sophistication than hundreds of Burgundies. The fruit is superbly fresh and vibrant, with red cherry notes throughout. The 2013, which is released in three months in New Zealand, is darker, heavier and more brooding and is a thrilling counterpoint to this sensational 2012.

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Prima Donna Pinot Noir is an elite barrel selection and in 2013 it is one of the greatest wines I have ever seen from this country. It is a year away from release, so satiate your palate on my chosen masterpiece in the meantime and cement this wine in your mind for all time.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.