Wine of the week: A cosmic zin

2009 Ridge, Lytton Springs, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County, California (about £32.50, The Sampler, 020-7225 5091; Planet of the Grapes, 020-7405 4912; Richard Dawes, 020-7924 4300).

This is a legendary wine that, although very short stocked this year, is still available from a few merchants (and at very differing prices), so act fast. I opened a few bottles ten days ago for one of my Quintessentially Wine Masterclasses and it was the wine of the night! Ridge is the go-to zinfandel estate in California and winemaker Paul Draper is widely acknowledged as one of the world's greatest vinous visionaries.

This cuve was first made, from 80-year-old vines, back in 1972. One of Lytton Springs' strengths is that it is the antithesis of the American palate's favourite style of zin. It is not a huge, 16% alcohol, headachy, 100% zinfandel, but a cunning blend of 71% zinfandel, 23% petite sirah, and 6% carignan. It is 14.5% alcohol, but it doesn't taste like it, and there is no portiness or dragon's breath heat when you take a sip. This is one of the velvetiest and most delicious cosmic reds I have tasted in ages. It spent 14 months in American oak, with only a smidgen (18%) new, so the seasoning and spice is perfect, too. This is one of the finest value, great red wines in the world.

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