Wine of the week: the decathlete of red wine

2010 Fleurie, Clos de la Roilette, Domaine Coudert, Burgundy, France (£12.78, Domaine Direct, 020-7837 1142, email sales@domainedirect.co.uk).

It's that time of year when you simply must have a top flight Beaujolais within your reach. This celestial style of wine is the most underrated of all reds. Admittedly, Beaujolais is a little light on its feet compared to other wines, but the best examples are profound and complex. The other main selling point is the versatility of the finest examples when it comes to food and wine matching. This is the decathlete of the wine world and for this reason it is inevitably the house red wine on offer in virtually every chic brasserie and auberge in France.

Drink it at all temperatures from ice cold to normal' red temperature and watch the fruit flavours change from taut, crunchy cherry notes, to languid, luxuriant brambles. This Fleurie is one of my perennial star wines. The price is laughable for the class on display. Agents Domaine Direct have one of the most formidable collections of Beaujolais around. Make sure you also taste this incredible duo of 2009s from Chteau Thivin, too 2009 Brouilly (£12.98) and 2009 Cte de Brouilly, Les Griottes (£18.00).

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Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.