A life-changing German riesling

2007 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, Weingut St.Urbans-Hof, Mosel, Germany (£12.99, The WineBarn, 01256-391211, www.thewinebarn.co.uk ).

Several years ago I took my one and only trip to the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer to taste wine (I do hope to go back!). I adore Mosel riesling and have done for decades, but going there and standing in the precipitous blue-slate-scattered vineyards on the banks of the mighty river was incredible. I visited some famous producers and I found myself understanding the soil, slopes and the true spirit of the mighty riesling grape variety for the first time.

On the last morning my guide, Michael Schemmel from the German Wine Office, insisted that I visit a producer that I had never heard of St Urbans-Hof. I came away from this tasting on cloud number nine. Nik Weis presented one of the most complete portfolios of wines I had seen anywhere in the world.

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There was one problem he didn't have an agent in the UK and therefore I couldn't write up or buy any of the wines! A year later, Iris Ellmann at The WineBarn has put this right. She has an amazing list of German wines from top producers and this Ockfener is life-changingly delicious.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year