The very best of Spanish reds

2004 Bodegas Roda I Reserva, Rioja, Spain (£35.00, Laithwaites, 0870-066 5689; Swig, 08000-272272, www.swig.co.uk; Eagle Wines, 020-7223 7209).

Last week I attended a tasting entitled 'The New Wave Spanish Wine Awards 2008'. Of the 124 wines that were 'awarded', I picked out around 20 that I thought were very good indeed. There were far too many stewed, raspingly tannic, old-wave reds for my taste, but on the upside the sherries were incredible and there were more than a handful of funky whites, which I will let you know about another time.

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Remember this name because it will become a legendary wine in years to come. Made from 30-year-old, very low yielding, Tempranillo vines and matured in French oak barrels (half new, half one year old) for 16 months and then for an additional 20 months in bottle before release, this is one of the greatest Spanish red wines I have ever tasted! It is perfectly clean, bright and long and it brims with determination, class and distinction. There is no trace of stinky oak, no hospital ward detergent and not even the merest whiff of Benylin to be found anywhere on the nose or palate.