Exciting times for Californian wines

2012 Sandhi, Chardonnay,Santa Barbara County, California(£32.95, Roberson Wine, 020-7381 7877).

I haven't been truly excited about Californian wine for well over two decades. Years ago, dearly departed Geoffrey Roberts shipped incredible Californian wines to the UK and we were all spoilt for choice.

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This mood was lifted at a recent Roberson Wine tasting where 17 estates were on show under the banner New California'. It was a triumphant event and I am fired up again about the excitement and class shown.

Change is happening, with lower alcohol and less oak. I also learned about the movement. You should have a read.

This devastating chardonnay, a product of a collaboration between Rajat Parr (wine director for the Michael Mina restaurant empire), Charles Banks (formerly managing partner at Screaming Eagle) and winemaker Sashi Morman is a case in point.

It shows as much finesse and lan as any chardonnay I can think of. I urge you to peruse the Roberson Californian collection it is fascinating and rewarding in equal measure.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the InternationalWine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

Matthew Jukes has been the MoneyWeek wine correspondent since 2006.

He has worked in the UK wine business for well over three decades and during this time has written 14 wine books. His four highly-acclaimed, annual wine reports – the Burgundy En Primeur Report, the Bordeaux En Primeur Report, the Piemonte Report and the 100 Best Australian Wines – are published on his website.

Matthew is a winner of the International Wine and Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy. His thoughts, recommendations and tastings notes are followed very closely by the wine world at large.