An extraordinary treat at a tiddly price

2008 Bricco Rosso, Suagn, Langhe Rosso, Piemonte, Italy (£7.25, The Wine Society, 01438-741177).

A cautionary recommendation this week. Only read on if you are a devotee of the fine wines of Piemonte and you are comfortable with the tannin and acid structures of these reds from this epic, little corner of the wine world. I say this because this budget red is, to a lifelong, starstruck, Piemonte acolyte, an extraordinary treat at a tiddly price. It's a tidy blend of dolcetto and nebbiolo and it isn't troubled by any noticeable oak and it looks dead smart to boot.

In the glass you are met by a frighteningly honest rendition of the soil, traditions, flora and fauna of the region. The nose is red-fruit-driven with smoky game nuances and dried herbs. It is delightful and mouth-watering. The palate is slim and it glides along smoothly, but the finish is taut with bright tannins and perky acidity.

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This wine will suit those of you familiar with the Jekyll and Hyde Piemontese red grape varieties, but newcomers might find it all a bit too raw and unreconstructed. It's rare to find an everyday glugger with this class and accuracy at a sniff over seven quid. Just make sure you are prepared before you dive in!

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).