Wine of the week: a dramatic and sensual chardonnay

2009 Crystallum, Clay Shales Chardonnay, Walker Bay, South Africa (£24.99, Harrogate Fine Wines, 01423-522270; Halifax Wine Co, 01422-256333; Liberty Wines, 020-7720 5350).

Crystallum is a new name for me, but it's one that I will never forget. Peter-Allan and Andrew Finlayson (sons of Peter Finlayson, of Bouchard-Finlayson fame) have made the finest debut South African chardonnay and pinot noir pair that I have ever tasted. 2009 Clay Shales Chardonnay is one of the most dramatic and sensual releases of the year.

It's restrained, linear, mineral and long, and it has all of the structure required from which to drape its sensational fruit.

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Coming from a single vineyard high up in the mountains behind the town of Hermanus in the Walker Bay, the cool temperatures result in a late harvest and this allows the grapes to gather serious complexity. Low yields and classical vinification result in breathtaking beauty and poise.

You should also track down some 2010 Cuve Cinma Pinot Noir. The 2009 was my highest scoring wine from this grape variety ever in South Africa. The new vintage turns up in October and it is priced at £32.99, available from Handford, Secret Cellar, Corks Out and Harrogate Fine Wine.

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year ( www.matthewjukes.com ).