A spellbinding and complex Champagne
NV Nicolas Feuillatte, Cuvée 225, Champagne, France
NV Nicolas Feuillatte, Cuve 225, Champagne, France (£39.99,Whole Foods Market, 020-7368 4500, www.wholefoodsmarket.com ).
This spellbinding Champagne takes its "Cuve 225" name from the capacity, in litres, of the traditional oak barrels in which it is fermented. Oak is rarely used in the production of Champagne outside of very expensive cuves and a few notable, ultra-top-end producers' wines Krug, Bollinger, Jacques Selosse and a few other renegades being the stars.
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This complex recipe results in a layering of flavours in the wine and the oak barrels gently enhance and augment the characters of every parcel of fruit.
As you might expect, the finished wine is very much a haut-couture number, with about as much panache and lan as any Champagne I have tasted in the last few years. Feuillatte is back with a bang, or rather a pop; better still, a sigh.
Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition's Communicator of the Year Trophy
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