Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus is where the city’s golden age still lingers
Sip Turkish tea as you float between Europe and Asia at the iconic Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus, the perfect vantage point to fall in love with Turkey.
Istanbul has existed in its various guises for millennia, straddling Europe and Asia across the Bosphorus. It is a cosmopolitan city. Here, you will find former Byzantine churches, many today serving as mosques, standing beside bazaars and rooftop restaurants frequented by tourists from all over the world. That centuries-old charm is still evident in the ruby-red çay (tea) that arrives without asking, baklava glistening behind bakery windows, the aroma of kebabs, and cats lounging beneath cafe tables, waiting patiently for scraps.
The Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus provides the perfect vantage point from which to see all this. Since opening in 1955, the hotel has welcomed royalty, presidents and Hollywood stars, including Queen Elizabeth II, George W. Bush and actors Sophia Loren and Marlon Brando.
It was Hilton's first footprint outside the Americas, arriving at a pivotal moment in the city's modern history. And the hotel's greatest asset is arguably its location. Boasting landscaped gardens dotted with palm trees, it feels surprisingly tranquil despite being only a short walk from the bustling Taksim Square.
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Restoring the iconic Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus
Originally designed by Chicago-based architectural firm Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, alongside celebrated Turkish architect Sedad Hakkı Eldem, the hotel building remains one of Istanbul's most recognisable examples of mid-century modernism. A recent refurbishment by local outfit Autoban has carefully retained its Turkish identity while embracing an element of the ever-changing nature of the city. Vintage details have been retained as they remain emblematic of the hotel's history, from the original Hilton logo in the lobby and the striking flying carpet installation suspended overhead at the entrance to the outdoor swimming pool, which is the largest hotel pool in Istanbul.
Throughout the property, there are further nods to the Hilton's past, including a lobby inspired by a sapphire necklace that Sophia Loren wore during a visit. Merve Seckin, the hotel's head of marketing, pointed out to me the restored handcrafted çintemani tiles that had remained hidden for years and, thanks to the renovation, are once more on display.
The Hilton's 475 rooms and suites have views of either the Bosphorus or the hotel's gardens. I stayed in the Bosphorus Suite, which had panoramic views over the city. From my balcony after dark, I could see the glow of the Beşiktaş Stadium, which I later discovered was for the Europa League football final. Coincidentally, Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus was also where the soon-to-be champions, Aston Villa, were staying.
Another famous face, albeit from further back in time, was jazz musician Louis Armstrong, who performed here in 1958. The hotel’s Sazzou jazz bar pays homage to Armstrong through its cocktail menu and intimate live music sessions.
Turkish delights with a twist
Breakfast at restaurant Arlo is an elaborate affair, with an abundant spread of regional cheeses, honey, olives, freshly baked simit (a type of bread) and countless local specialities, which are best enjoyed with several glasses of Turkish tea.
Dinner at Malva, the hotel's signature restaurant, led by chef Sefa Birinci, took a contemporary approach to cooking with fresh Anatolian ingredients. Each course built playfully upon the last, beginning with warm potato bread, accompanied by a lit edible candle made from kefir-fermented homemade butter. Standout dishes included braised artichoke with pea sorbet, balancing sweetness with earthiness; delicate manti (dumplings) filled with richly flavoured ribeye and topped with caramelised onions; and a herbaceous sorbet of coriander, parsley and mint to refresh your palate.
What to see in Istanbul
As comfortable as the Hilton is, Istanbul is a vibrant, fascinating city to explore. Depending on the length of your stay, you may want to dedicate a whole day to exploring a different corner. On my first day, I took a guided tour through Sultanahmet, exploring the Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern and the Blue Mosque. Afterwards, you can wander through the 15th-century Grand Bazaar, where spices perfume the air, and lanterns light the market's passages in vibrant shades of blue.
In Beyoglu, you can ride the nostalgic red tram along Istiklal Avenue before climbing Galata Tower for sweeping views over the Golden Horn, an inlet of the Bosphorus that separates old Istanbul from new. Don't forget to sample Turkish delight in many flavours, and if you're an avid coffee drinker, do try a traditional Turkish coffee, brewed slowly in hot sand.
You will also want to take a ferry across the Bosphorus to Kadıköy, which offers a more relaxed take on the city. There, you'll find waterfront tea gardens and it's best to arrive hungry. You are bound to discover mouth-watering kebabs for sale here or one of Istanbul's famous “wet burgers”, which are burgers drenched in tomato sauce.
No matter how many days you spend in Istanbul, the chances are that you'll find it's not enough to see everything the city has to offer. Conrad Hilton, the founder of the hotel chain, famously remarked, “London or Chicago… neither of these can ever hope to match the magic of this famed city of antiquity”. More than 70 years after he opened the Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus in the city, it's hard to disagree.
Oojal was a guest at Hilton Istanbul Bosphorus. From £232 per night. Visit hilton.com for more information.
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