Hotel Saltus: A mountain escape for hiking and forest bathing in the Dolomites

Hotel Saltus is a minimalist, family-owned boutique hotel located in the mountains of the Dolomites in South Tyrol, an eight-minute drive from the Italian town of Bolzano, which you can fly into from London. There's no need to strain your neck on the short but winding drive from the airport – the moment you walk into the lobby you get a panoramic view of the dramatic landscape. Jagged, snow-capped peaks, rolling green hills, the sloping roofs of Alpine homes. It's impossible not to feel uplifted.

The hotel's setting is serene, blending into the landscape thanks to the use of locally sourced materials. Guests lounge in the lobby, where wooden decorations by local artisans are paired with cosy seating arrangements, making it the perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine, a game of chess, or a cup of coffee while watching the clouds roll over the surrounding mountain range.

Saltus is located between the Salten Plateau and the slopes of the Tschögglberg, and it offers access to over 800 kilometers of hiking trails. We visited in April and embarked on a guided hike with Claudia Mumelter, one third of the mother-sister trio who founded the hotel.

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“You shouldn't be in a rush in the mountains,” she said as we weaved our way through ancient, towering trees. “Otherwise it's not a real experience.” Slowing down to watch water droplets gather on low-hanging branches, moss sparkling with dew and shiny salamanders weaving their way through the undergrowth, it was hard not to agree. The forest was a little damp, a tad cold and unbelievably beautiful. Don't forget waterproof shoes and layers, and you'll be able to bask in the peace of it whatever the weather.

Our hike led us to a local Alpine hut, the malga Gschnoferstall, where we were met with local South Tyrolean wine and cuisine.

After basking in the malga's generous hospitality, we made our way back to the hotel, where the Forest Spa awaited.

Forest spa with a view

The Forest Spa places you right in the middle of the forest, without having to be outside. You have your pick of saunas, all set in the ground floor with panoramic views of nature, so you can be eye level with the forest. Sit in the Finnish sauna, located in a glass cube, have a steam bath with a forest view, or take it all in at the Hay sauna, which harnesses the healing powers of Alpine grasses. The spa also features outdoor and indoor relaxation areas, and offers a selection of treatments by masseurs, physiotherapists and osteopaths.

Try hugging a tree

However, the hotel's philosophy goes beyond treatments. It offers a comprehensive wellness programme that gives you access to yoga, meditation and “forest bathing”. Now, as a Londoner, I was sceptical about the benefits of hugging trees. But let me tell you, if anything, it was the most meaningful experience of the trip.

We were taken to the forest by Nadja Mumelter, another third of the founding trio, who guides guests through a mindful experience of the forest. Forest bathing, or practising mindfulness and meditation in nature, has been proven to reduce stress, regulate blood pressure and activate your parasympathetic nervous system – all of which translate into feeling exceptionally at peace. There is something very soothing and even humbling about sitting in silence and taking a second to look around the forest that has been there for centuries before us, and will hopefully be there for centuries after. Don't knock the tree hugging until you try it.

There is plenty of satisfaction to be found inside the hotel too. As well as the Forest Spa, guests have access to the sky pools on the hotel's terrace. The Infinity Sky Pool offers panoramic views of the Dolomites. Crucially, it's warm all year round, so it's enjoyable even with the April nip in the air. There's also an Indoor Sky Pool, and an indoor relaxation area surrounded in glass that offers excellent views of the forest. Both views of the forest and deep relaxation can be found inside the hotel's rooms as well, which look out over the mountains or the forest, and where it's easy to spend hours contemplating the landscape.

Hotel Saltus spoils its guests with South Tyrolean cuisine

And of course, you can't go to Italy without talking about the food. While it's committed to wellness, Saltus spoils its guests with rich South Tyrolean cuisine. Deeply rooted in the seasons, it takes inspiration from traditional preservation methods – think tangy pickled vegetables and flavourful cured meats. We were treated to fresh salads, creamy pastas and rich roasts, all paired with exceptional local wine and capped with indulgent desserts. If you want to avoid the crowds in the Dolomites, it's worth visiting earlier in the season, between April and June. Either way, those staying at Hotel Saltus are sure to have a memorable time.

Nicole was a guest at Hotel Saltus. From £274 per night, including breakfast. Visit hotel-saltus.com/en/.

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