Review: Pierre & Vacances – affordable luxury in iconic Flaine

Anthony, an ESF ski-school instructor, has paused at the side of the piste, and is excitedly beckoning me over. He’s pointing towards an undisturbed mountainside in the distance. “Look, can you see the chamois?” It’s not uncommon to see the mountain goats there, I learn, if you know where to look. Soon enough, another slightly turns its head and it’s no longer hidden in plain sight.

With heaps of fresh snow and blue sky, it’s the perfect day for a game of spot the chamois, as we explore Flaine in the heart of the Haute-Savoie region of the French Alps. We began our ski adventure at the Grandes Platières summit, at an altitude of 2,500 metres, capturing the breathtaking 360-degree panorama of the Mont Blanc, Aravis, Belledonne and Jura mountains. The viewpoint is accessible to skiers and pedestrians via cable car, with red and blue runs leading us back into the resort.

I’m visiting in January, hours after a fresh snowfall, and there’s good news for those looking for guaranteed snow later on in the season too. The north-west orientation and sheltered position of Flaine means the resort is often among those with the most snow in France. There’s a network of around 100 snowmakers too, just in case.

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Traversing the pistes is thirsty work and our group rendezvous for a lunchtime Aperol Spritz at La Joyeuse, a restaurant beside the ski slope in Flaine Front de Neige (1,500 metres). Flaine itself is divided into four levels, and pedestrians can travel to different parts of the resort via free shuttle buses and two funiculars. We’re at the lowest altitude in the “bowl” of the resort, yet we’re still surrounded by views of the mountains and snow-capped fir trees. I’m in a winter wonderland facing the tough decision between tartiflette and boîte chaude (baked cheese served in a wooden box, with potatoes, salad and cured meats). Now, this is my kind of ski holiday.

Getting around made easy

I’m staying at Les Terrasses d’Hélios, a five-star residence by Pierre & Vacances in Flaine Les Gérats. Situated at 1,700m, the accommodation offers ski-in/ski-out access via gentle greens and blue runs. On arrival, I make a beeline for the outdoor hot tub, which boasts a spectacular view across the resort. The spa facilities also include an indoor swimming pool, hammam and sauna.

My two-bedroom apartment is comfortable and has a kitchenette, while the shuttle service on offer is ideal for getting around town. Pierre & Vacances is also introducing Sunday changeovers at its residences in Flaine, giving guests the opportunity to enjoy quieter slopes on Saturdays, while other skiers head home. Speaking of which, the resort is close to Geneva Airport – our private transfers took around one hour.

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Flaine is linked to Le Grand Massif – France’s fourth-largest interconnected “ski-in/skiout” ski area, with 62 ski lifts providing access to 139 ski runs. It has a total of 265 kilometres of pistes, including four routes out of the “bowl” of Flaine.

One morning, in pursuit of a new adventure, we take the Grand Vans chairlift to 2,204 metres, before exploring the slopes in nearby Les Carroz and Morillon. Here, we discover scenic tree-lined pistes, including the five kilometre gentle green Marvel run, where you can fill your boots with forest footage on your GoPro.

We return to Flaine early in the afternoon and recharge at La Pente à Jules, a restaurant and snack bar on the slopes in Flaine Forum, at 1,650m. Unable to resist burrata cheese, I choose the Penne à l’italienne.

An evening in a cosy igloo

As the lifts close and the night falls, we swap our skis for snowshoes and head torches for a one-of-a-kind adventure with Alban, a local mountain guide who hand-built an igloo in the heart of a nearby forest. After hiking for about a mile, we locate the frozen refuge, which could easily remain a secret were it not for Alban gesturing towards the one-metre high entrance. Our group cuddles up with cups of vin chaud and igloo-chilled white wine, before tucking into a candlelit Savoyard dinner of cheese fondue, bread and saucisson.

As well as being a snowsports hub, Flaine is known for its art and Brutalist architecture. Flaine was developed in the 1960s, following a meeting between architect Marcel Breuer, an influential figure in Modernism and the Bauhaus movement, and a French couple, Éric and Sylvie Boissonnas. Listed as a 20th-century architectural heritage site, it’s now an open-air museum, home to works of art by Jean Dubuffet, Pablo Picasso and Victor Vasarely. If you’re seeking more thrills, even more adventures await after enjoying the slopes, such as quad biking on a snow and ice track at Circuit de Glace.

Le Michet, at the foot of the slopes in Flaine Forum, is another example of Flaine’s rich heritage. The chalet is an old sheepfold, more than 100 years old, which existed before the resort was built. Now a restaurant, it offers fresh local cuisine for both lunch and evening service, centred around a roaring fire.

A ski holiday, I find, is as much about the slopes as it is about immersing oneself in the mountain gastronomy. Be sure to visit restaurant Sabaudia in Flaine Forêt to sample traditional Savoyard cuisine. I indulged in a hearty gratin de crozets baked pasta dish, with porcini and comté cheese.

Jessica was a guest of Pierre & Vacances. Weekly rates at Les Terrasses d’Hélios in February 2026 start from £2,410 for a one-bedroom apartment. Visit pierreetvacances.com/gb-en. See SkiSet Forum for ski equipment hire.