Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia: A haven of history and nature

I am contemplating the Torre di Chia from the balcony of my suite at the Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia hotel. The Spanish built the defensive round tower in the 16th century – on the far side of the lagoon from where I am standing – to ward off pirates raiding the southern coast of the Mediterranean island. Other than its half-millennium of history, there isn't very much that is remarkable about it.

What is remarkable is what it sits on – ancient Bithia. This settlement, built by the Phoenicians, had existed since at least the eighth century BC. But when the Phoenicians arrived, there were people already living in the area – a people we call the Nuragic civilisation. We don't know what they called themselves. Curiously, they haven't left us any writing – or none that we have found at any rate. So, historians have named them for the often monumental dry-stone structures that lie dotted around the interior of the island in various states of preservation. One of the most impressive Nuragic sites is at Su Nuraxi, a 90-minute drive due north from Conrad Chia Laguna.

(Sardinia is peppered with archaeological sites. Another, called Nora, is located 25 minutes from the Conrad and it is also well-worth visiting. Like Bithia, it was founded by the Phoenicians, but it is the impressive Roman ruins that you see today.)

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What remains of Bithia – and there isn't very much – is to be found on the raised promontory, marked out by the Torre di Chia (one of the area's relatively more recent additions). Here, the coastline is stunning, with two golden beaches – Monte Cogoni and Dune di Campana – just off to the side. It reminds me a little of the famous Mayan ruins at Tulum, on the Caribbean coast of Mexico, and I wonder why Bithia isn't better known.

Three hotels in the Chia Laguna Nature Resort

The Conrad is one of three hotels in the Chia (pronounced “kia”) Laguna Nature Resort, along with Baia di Chia Resort Sardinia, Curio Collection by Hilton; and The Village. The first two are run by the Hilton Group, and all of the accommodations are charming.

The rooms and suites at the Baia di Chia have more of a cottage feel to them, and they either overlook the lagoon or the sea. Guests of the resort can use the large pool and restaurants here and, of the three hotels, it is closest to the beaches and cabanas. I am told this is where the Germans like to stay – and, really, who could blame them?

The Italians, arriving in family groups, apparently enjoy the relaxed fiesta atmosphere of The Village, where there is live music and entertainment in the evenings and a buffet restaurant.

As for the British, we – and our American cousins – like our luxuries and it is to the Conrad hotel that we retire. The decor is elegant and the colour scheme reflects the natural, neutral tones of the area – wicker, stone and terracotta-tiled floors. Amphorae have been arranged in the recesses of the stairs and corridors to remind you of the local ancient history.

Drink the elixir of life at the Conrad Chia Laguna

The Conrad has a terrace bar and restaurant, called Bar Bollicine and La Terrazza respectively. The restaurant serves a menu centred around local and Mediterranean dishes. I recommend the seafood fregula, which are very small balls of Sardinian pasta. You must also try the seadas, which is the local sweet speciality. It is a fried pastry containing pecorino cheese and covered in local honey. It sounds savoury, but it is really very nice. (Two courses cost €55.) And do try the wine. The local cannonau red grape is supposedly what makes Sardinia a “blue zone” – a region where the inhabitants remain sprightly well into old age and live for an especially long time. At least, that's what the locals say, anyway.

In the warmer months, Sa Mesa is another restaurant option, focused on Sardinian dishes. And not far away is the Conrad Spa in case the cannonau doesn't do the trick. The Conrad also has its own outdoor swimming pool (and pool bar) and padel courts. During the peak season, the resort has nine restaurants, eight bars and five swimming pools in total.

The triumph over mass tourism

The rooms and suites at the Conrad Chia Laguna are either garden-facing or look out onto the sea. Our “king suite” is comfortable, with a tub in the bathroom. As is often the case in the Mediterranean, the large balcony terrace is the standout feature and it's where we while away the hours. There is a small table and a couple of armchairs under cover and, forward, a pair of sun loungers. Below is the lagoon, framed by the hills and occasionally visited by pink flamingos. And beyond it, the Torre di Chia and ancient Bithia.

With the passing of centuries, the Phoenicians who founded Bithia became the Carthaginians, who were conquered by the Romans and the Romans themselves later succumbed – each wave leaving its mark on Sardinia. In the seventh century AD, Bithia was abandoned for the same reason the Nuragic peoples had moved inland and the Spanish built their tower centuries later – the persistent threat of coastal raids. It seems incongruous that such a naturally beautiful place could have ever witnessed destruction. Happily, the area has held out better against the onslaught of mass tourism and the vicinity has retained much of its wild ruggedness. And so the passage of time continues.

Chris was a guest of Conrad Chia Laguna Sardinia. From €270 a night, including breakfast. Visit hilton.com

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