A tipsy marathon on the North Downs

published 14 September 2018

913_MW_P41_Travel — Denbies' estate, set in the rolling Surrey downs

The English wine-grape harvest is under way. Last Saturday, I popped down to Denbies Wine Estate in Dorking, Surrey, to see how they were getting on. Cold-climate varieties (this still being England, despite the sizzling summer suggesting otherwise), including Mller-Thurgau, ortega and the red-skinned dornfelder, looked good enough to eat. There were even varieties you would associate more with fine Loires and Champagnes tucked away among the 265 acres under vine, such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir.

Perhaps that's not too surprising given that the North Downs, stretching from Surrey to Kent, share the same chalky soil as the home of bubbly across the Channel. Add to that the hotter summers we have been having here since Denbies was established in 1986, and this corner of Britain may one day be one of the world's premier wine-making areas. But we're not there yet. Every four years or so, Denbies experiences a winter so biting that some of the vines have to be replaced.

Alternatively, for those who preferred to run it all off, there was the annual Run Bacchus marathon on the Sunday. The 26.2-mile course skirts the estate twice, and instead of picking up water, runners grab glasses of wine at the 12 stages a concept borrowed from the Marathon du Mdoc, a run held every year since 1985 in the Bordeaux wine region. (Kelly Walsh, events manager at Denbies, assured me there would also be water for those worried that their run might turn into a stagger.) And for the truly temperate among us, there was a shorter, half-marathon with six glasses along the way. Better still was what awaited the tired, and quite possibly tipsy, runners at the end: a hog roast. The perfect way to finish.

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Chris Carter spent three glorious years reading English literature on the beautiful Welsh coast at Aberystwyth University. Graduating in 2005, he left for the University of York to specialise in Renaissance literature for his MA, before returning to his native Twickenham, in southwest London. He joined a Richmond-based recruitment company, where he worked with several clients, including the Queen’s bank, Coutts, as well as the super luxury, Dorchester-owned Coworth Park country house hotel, near Ascot in Berkshire.

Then, in 2011, Chris joined MoneyWeek. Initially working as part of the website production team, Chris soon rose to the lofty heights of wealth editor, overseeing MoneyWeek’s Spending It lifestyle section. Chris travels the globe in pursuit of his work, soaking up the local culture and sampling the very finest in cuisine, hotels and resorts for the magazine’s discerning readership. He also enjoys writing his fortnightly page on collectables, delving into the fascinating world of auctions and art, classic cars, coins, watches, wine and whisky investing.

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