A wildly scented nebbiolo packed with fruit

2013 Barbaresco, Bruno Rocca, Piemonte, Italy

2013 Barbaresco, Bruno Rocca, Piemonte, Italy (£49.50, Eton Vintners, 01753-790188, EtonVintners.com; £51.96, Richard Granger Fine Wine, 0191-281 5000, RichardGrangerWines.co.uk; £52.99, Harrogate Fine Wine, 01423-522270, HarrogateFineWineCompany.com). 

Part two of my Piemonte focus (see MatthewJukes.com for all my previous wine columns) concentrates on Barbaresco, the equally starry but much smaller wine region that sits to the north east of Barolo. Once again, nebbiolo is king and here the wines tend to be a little more forward and lighter than many of the blockbuster Barolos. It is here that Angelo Gaja made his fortune, with his eponymous wine, while simultaneously doing the greatest regional worldwide wine marketing of all time. He put Barbaresco on the map and in our cellars and today a goodly number of producers sell their wines in the UK.

One of the finest of all is Bruno Rocca. The most striking aspect of this ethereal creation is the perfume, which leads the way and also signals the future fruit flavours and theme of this vintage. Fine in weight but packed with fruit, this is a wildly scented nebbiolo with a cranberry and cherry core. I expect it will be another in a run of successes for this estate. See my website for the full 2017 Piemonte Report with 850 tasting notes from 147 wineries.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).