Unusual praise for a fine Lambrusco

2016 Lambrusco, I Calanchi,

2016 Lambrusco, I Calanchi, Monte delle Vigne, Colli di Parma, Emilia Romagna, Italy £16.95, reduced to £14.95 each for a case of six, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, LeaAndSandeman.co.uk

If I said that we should all drink more Lambrusco you might think I was endeavouring to commit career suicide. As far as trends are concerned, the re-emergence of serious Lambrusco on our shelves is barely noteworthy. The problem is that I have tasted four or five good ones of late and so this cannot be simply a fluke. “Anomalies happen” is one of my favourite sayings, and so I am going to take the plunge and alert you to this insanely good Lambrusco and its jolly little brother.

Perfect with steak

First the less expensive, less technically involving and easier to swallow wine. NV Lambrusco Classico (£12.75, Lea & Sandeman) is black-cherry and liquorice-soaked, frothy and bone dry. I cannot think of anything more delicious than a cold glass of this wine with a barbecued steak on a sweltering day.

When others turn to beer, I turn to elite Lambrusco. Monte delle Vigne is located south-west of Parma at 300m altitude and the vines are organically farmed. The fruit is squeaky clean and as bright as can be.

As for my featured wine, I Calanchi, it’s even more strict and searing and the snap of acidity on the finish immeasurably brightens the wine – and also manages to cut through every chargrilled, marinated, spicy and saucy flavour you can throw at it.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).