Join this magical cult

2011 Onannon, Pinot Noir, Gippsland, Victoria, Australia (about £35, Noel Young Wines, 01223-566744; D. Byrne & Co, 01200-423152; Camber Wines, 023-9275 5225; Raffles Wine, 01453-833133; Highbury Vintners, 020-7226 1347; The Good Wine Shop, 020-8994 8184; Mill Hill Wines, 020-8959 6754; Hangingditch, 0161-832 8222).

This year’s 100 Best Australian Wines list went live on my website last week. I launched all 100 wines at Australia House last Tuesday and will start my nationwide roadshow at Tate Britain on 9 September – I hope you can make one of the events. But, sadly, this wine will not be joining me.

Each year, I have to be brutally ruthless with my selection process and, as there are only 35 cases of Onannon in the country, there’s not enough of it about for the lifetime of this initiative. This is why I am telling you about it right now.

The tagline for this beauty is ‘subversive pinot noir from three renegade winemakers in Gippsland’! That pretty much sums it up.

Unfined, unfiltered, sourced from 16-year-old vines in the Lightfoot Vineyard, Will Byron, Kaspar Hermann and Sam Middleton have managed to make an utterly stunning wine. It is a magical pinot with succulence and complexity and you should rush out to buy this cult wine.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

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