Clever wines for less than a tenner

2012 Casillero del Diablo, Devil’s Collection White, Concha y Toro, Chile (£8.99, Tesco).

This wine and its red brother, 2012 Devil’s Collection Red (also £8.99, Tesco), a syrah, carmenère, cabernet blend, further confirm the extraordinary talent of Concha y Toro winemaker Marcelo Papa.

I have gone on record saying that Casillero del Diablo Cabernet is the best value Cab in the world – it is often on discount for a fiver. But this wine and its red brother show what you can do if you move up the ladder a rung or two and carefully blend varieties together.

I prefer the term layering to blending in this regard, because these wines really do have beautiful, tonal fruit which never stays still long enough on the palate to pin it down – they are both frighteningly clever wines.

The white is a sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewurztraminer blend – my normal reaction to this recipe is to shudder and recoil. Marcelo makes you move closer and inhale its scent. This is a delicious, sensual wine with grown up depth and a decent, dry finish.

They both look good, too. I expect this duo will make an appearance at thousands of parties this summer. Just make sure you secure stock before it all sells out as it surely will when the word gets out.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

Merryn

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