An extraordinary treat at a tiddly price

2008 Bricco Rosso, Suagnà, Langhe Rosso, Piemonte, Italy (£7.25, The Wine Society, 01438-741177).

A cautionary recommendation this week. Only read on if you are a devotee of the fine wines of Piemonte and you are comfortable with the tannin and acid structures of these reds from this epic, little corner of the wine world. I say this because this budget red is, to a lifelong, starstruck, Piemonte acolyte, an extraordinary treat at a tiddly price. It’s a tidy blend of dolcetto and nebbiolo and it isn’t troubled by any noticeable oak and it looks dead smart to boot.

In the glass you are met by a frighteningly honest rendition of the soil, traditions, flora and fauna of the region. The nose is red-fruit-driven with smoky game nuances and dried herbs. It is delightful and mouth-watering. The palate is slim and it glides along smoothly, but the finish is taut with bright tannins and perky acidity.

This wine will suit those of you familiar with the Jekyll and Hyde Piemontese red grape varieties, but newcomers might find it all a bit too raw and unreconstructed. It’s rare to find an everyday glugger with this class and accuracy at a sniff over seven quid. Just make sure you are prepared before you dive in!

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

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