A scintillating Chablis

2012 Chablis, 1er Cru Côte de Léchet, Domaine Daniel Dampt, Burgundy, France (£135 in bond per dozen, Haynes, Hanson & Clark, 020-7584 7927).

I am going to explode. Here are some quotes from well-regarded wine merchants concerning the 2012 Burgundies being peddled right now – ‘tear-jerkingly good, ‘great’, ‘brilliant’, ‘expressive, vibrant and intense’! These merchants stress that volumes are low and punters must act now or die of thirst. This is rubbish.

Yes, volumes are down 30%-40%, but prices are up 30%-40%, too. The 2013 harvest was down in volume, too, so everyone needs to make money apparently. There is no earthly reason for you to rush to buy anything.

The wines are, on the whole, simple, fruity, forward-drinking (ready to drink early) and joyless. Granted, there are a few exceptions, but there is not one bottle which outshines its 2010 counterpart and they are all more expensive.

Only one other commentator whom I have spoken to agreed with my thoughts, so make of that what you will; but I am certain that, with the exception of Chablis, which had a superb harvest, hence my chosen wine this week, the wines are a letdown.

My full report, including scores and recommended merchants, will be published on my website shortly. In the meantime, order loads of Chablis like this scintillating, great value wine, and seek out more genuinely thrilling 2010s!

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

Merryn

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