A rosé with attitude

Rosado de Silos, Spain

2012 Rosado de Silos, Cillar de Silos, Ribera del Duero, Spain (£12.40, Berry Bros & Rudd, 0800-280 2440).

I have already introduced you to a fantastic trio of Provence rosés this year and you could drink these all day long and be thoroughly satiated, but here is a totally different take on the rosé style that I am certain you will love, too. Made by the stalwart red-wine specialists, Cillar de Silos, in the noble wine region of Ribera del Duero, this is a very dark rosé, made from tempranillo and it weighs in at a statesman-like 14% alcohol.

Usually wines with these stats are hideous, pantomime dames, but this beauty is uncommonly muscular and lithe at the same time – think honed gymnast. The red fruit is wild and there are moments of fresh herbs and pomegranate, making it a gripping experience. The finish is more robust than usual and it would work well with any barbecue on account of its drive and determination. I think that you should check it out. This is a great wine.

If you want to see what this estate does in traditional red-wine form, then look to the fabulously priced 2009 Cillar de Silos, Crianza (£15.50, Oddbins), with its spicy, grippy, prune and dark chocolate notes, and you will see where my rosé gets its attitude.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

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