A heavenly and magical albariño

2012 Marimar Estate, Albariño, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russina River Valley, California

2012 Marimar Estate, Albariño, Don Miguel Vineyard, Russina River Valley, California (£27.99, www.vintagemarque.com, 01442-289306).

Last month, I wrote up 2013 Albariño de Fefiñanes, Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain (£15.99, Waitrose) in my weekly Daily Mail column, in Weekend Magazine, saying, “I would be surprised if I taste a finer albariño this year.” Well, I just have and it comes from a rather unlikely source.

Marimar Torres planted this stunning Spanish grape in her Sonoma Coast vineyard with a mind to creating a Californian version of the classic Spanish white wine. Would you believe that this site was too cool for the grapes to ripen!

She then grafted budwood over to her sunnier Don Miguel Vineyard and this wine is the result. Only 287 cases were produced and we have 50 in the UK – well, 48 because I have bought two for Bibendum Restaurant.

You simply must taste this exceptional wine. It is the finest example of this grape I have ever tasted and, yes, that includes all of the Spanish versions. It is heavenly in every respect from the pineapple husk, Sicilian lemon and jasmine nose to the silky smooth, magical finish.

The length and amplitude of flavour on the finish is unprecedented. Marimar is no stranger to this column, but I never thought her next write up would be an albariño!

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (www.matthewjukes.com).

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