Profound wines from Portugal

2014 Post Scriptum de Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Douro, Portugal

2014 Post Scriptum de Chryseia, Prats & Symington, Douro, Portugal (£17.25, WineDirect.co.uk; £150 in bond case of 12 bottles, FarrVintners.com).

The red wines from this historic port-making estate are utterly fascinating. This joint venture between Bruno Prats (former owner of Château Cos d’Estournel) and the Symington Family (owners of Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s and Cockburn’s) is bearing remarkable fruit. I visited the estate recently and was astounded at the quality of red wine made from their properties – Quinta de Roriz and Quinta da Perdiz.  2014 Prazo de Roriz (£11.95, WineDirect.co.uk) is the entry-level wine here and it is a delightful handshake from the region.

My featured port is made from 92% Roriz and 8% Perdiz-sourced fruit and the blend is 64% touriga nacional, 28% touriga franca and 8% tinta roriz. It sees 14 months in 400-litre French oak barrels and it is structured, defined, menthol-tinged and fascinatingly red fruited. This is a wine to ponder over on a lazy afternoon, such is its incredible complexity and sotto voce delivery.

Its big brother 2014 Chryseia turns up in June (about £50 from Farr Vintners) and this is even more demonstrative with luxurious black fruit sourced from Roriz and including a wicked, powerful parcel from neighbouring Quinta da Vila Velha. I was very fortunate to taste a sneak preview of the 2015s, too – Prazo out of bottle and Post Scriptum and Chryseia out of barrel – and I venture that these will turn out to be some of the most profound red wines ever made in Portugal.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

Merryn

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